Makalu | 1990 Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1990 via Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge, led by Joaquim Prunes. Summit reached on 3rd October 1990. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 717
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA90302
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Joaquim Prunes
Sponsor Makalu 1990
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 33rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-08-26
Summit Date 1990-10-03
Summit Time 1610
Summit Days 38
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1990-10-11
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/08,5900m),ABC(29/08),C1(05/09,7000m),C2(16/09,7800m),C3(02/10,8100m),Smt(03/10)
Route Notes BC at glacier SE of point 6130m. 7 members left BC Sept 27 because their time ran out. Rest of team rested in BC to Sept 29, when 5 members and 4 Sherpas left BC to make another summit bid. Sept 30 to C1, Oct 1 to C2 (2 Sherpas down to C1). Oct 2 C3 made by 3 members and 2 Sherpas. Oct 3 Zamora Barra noticed feet freezing and stayed in C3 with 1 Sherpa while other 2 Spaniards and Lhakpa Sherpa went for top starting at 3:30 am in deep snow. Climbing last couloir's 150m took more than 5 hrs in chest-deep snow; arrived on summit at 4:10 pm climbing final sharp snow ridge 20m (strode ridge like riding a house); back to C3 6:30 pm and slept there. Oct 4 all 5 men reached BC. Oct 11 2 members to KTM by helicopter and quickly to Spain and hospital where Bros stayed few days and Zamora one or 2 months; others left BC 7th Oct. This 1st 8000m summit for Lhakpa Sherpa. 1st summit attempt was on Sept 17. Prunes - 5 Oct 1990 Returned KTM early Oct (3 & 4 Oct) because 4 had to go back to work and 2 had wives trekking in Nepal. French member never reached BC because of news from family at home. BC 26 Aug 5900m ABC 29 Aug just under 7000m C1 5 Sept 9 Sept reached ridge at 7500m. Intended set a camp at 7600m but then bad weather and summit attack team wanted a higher camp. 16 Sept C2 7800m just below North Face couloir. 17 Sept 1st attack from C2 at 2 am by Angles Soler, Capdevilla and Sorolla Oliva. Weather too bad; snow deep to waist and could see nothing; at 10 am had climbed up couloir and reached 8050m; 3 pm reached foot of last wall at 8240m and snow to chest and they returned to C2; next day 18th all in BC. 2 more summit bids prepared by 7 members and 3 Sherpas. 1st group to C2 on 23 Sept and on 24th took 2 hours to more 100m traverse in chest-deep snow and 2 avalanches so retreated. 2nd group never reached C2 because all again to BC. 27th 6 members left BC. Others hoped to make attempt in early Oct.
Accidents Zamora serious frostbitten feet; Bros slight frostbitten nose and toes
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451148
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) kukuczka rib direct to nw ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Josep Aced Masjoan M 1948 Spain Dep Leader/Exp Doctor Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Jorge Agullo Colomer M 1953 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Jordi Angles Soler M 1956 Spain Climber Pas-de-la-casa, Andorra Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Antonio (Toni) Bros Busquet M 1957 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Photographer Details Other expeditions
Josep Canellas Isern M 1957 Spain Exp Doctor Balsareny, Barcelona, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Lluis Capdevila Capdevila M 1958 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Teacher, mentally handicapped children Details Other expeditions
Adria Font Alcaniz M 1945 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Joaquim (Kim) Prunes Santamaria M 1953 Spain Leader Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Textile factory manager Details Other expeditions
Jaume Segura Tallo M 1958 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Trucking company administrator Details Other expeditions
Jaume Sorolla Oliva M 1956 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Francesc Zamora Barra M 1958 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Serge Philippe Benet Mas M 1951 France Climber Andorra-la-Vella, Andorra Sporting goods salesman Details Other expeditions
Cesar Comas Gras M 1946 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain - Details Other expeditions
Narcis Serrat Comerma M 1954 Spain Climber Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA90302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:215-216 (1991) -
MAKA90302 MM - - - 137:9 (Jan 1991) -
MAKA90302 OTH Tomas, Manuel Makalu 1990 Arxiv del Centre Excursionista de Terrassa 63:495-521 (Dec 1990) -
MAKA90302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121504/Asia-Nepal-Makalu - - -