Makalu | 1990 Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge
A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1990 via Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge, led by Joaquim Prunes. Summit reached on 3rd October 1990. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 717 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA90302 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Kukuczka Rib direct to NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Joaquim Prunes |
| Sponsor | Makalu 1990 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 33rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | France |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-08-26 |
| Summit Date | 1990-10-03 |
| Summit Time | 1610 |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 46 |
| Termination Date | 1990-10-11 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8485 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/08,5900m),ABC(29/08),C1(05/09,7000m),C2(16/09,7800m),C3(02/10,8100m),Smt(03/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at glacier SE of point 6130m. 7 members left BC Sept 27 because their time ran out. Rest of team rested in BC to Sept 29, when 5 members and 4 Sherpas left BC to make another summit bid. Sept 30 to C1, Oct 1 to C2 (2 Sherpas down to C1). Oct 2 C3 made by 3 members and 2 Sherpas. Oct 3 Zamora Barra noticed feet freezing and stayed in C3 with 1 Sherpa while other 2 Spaniards and Lhakpa Sherpa went for top starting at 3:30 am in deep snow. Climbing last couloir's 150m took more than 5 hrs in chest-deep snow; arrived on summit at 4:10 pm climbing final sharp snow ridge 20m (strode ridge like riding a house); back to C3 6:30 pm and slept there. Oct 4 all 5 men reached BC. Oct 11 2 members to KTM by helicopter and quickly to Spain and hospital where Bros stayed few days and Zamora one or 2 months; others left BC 7th Oct. This 1st 8000m summit for Lhakpa Sherpa. 1st summit attempt was on Sept 17. Prunes - 5 Oct 1990 Returned KTM early Oct (3 & 4 Oct) because 4 had to go back to work and 2 had wives trekking in Nepal. French member never reached BC because of news from family at home. BC 26 Aug 5900m ABC 29 Aug just under 7000m C1 5 Sept 9 Sept reached ridge at 7500m. Intended set a camp at 7600m but then bad weather and summit attack team wanted a higher camp. 16 Sept C2 7800m just below North Face couloir. 17 Sept 1st attack from C2 at 2 am by Angles Soler, Capdevilla and Sorolla Oliva. Weather too bad; snow deep to waist and could see nothing; at 10 am had climbed up couloir and reached 8050m; 3 pm reached foot of last wall at 8240m and snow to chest and they returned to C2; next day 18th all in BC. 2 more summit bids prepared by 7 members and 3 Sherpas. 1st group to C2 on 23 Sept and on 24th took 2 hours to more 100m traverse in chest-deep snow and 2 avalanches so retreated. 2nd group never reached C2 because all again to BC. 27th 6 members left BC. Others hoped to make attempt in early Oct. |
| Accidents | Zamora serious frostbitten feet; Bros slight frostbitten nose and toes |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Kunga |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451148 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | kukuczka rib direct to nw ridge |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Josep Aced Masjoan | M | 1948 | Spain | Dep Leader/Exp Doctor | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jorge Agullo Colomer | M | 1953 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jordi Angles Soler | M | 1956 | Spain | Climber | Pas-de-la-casa, Andorra | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonio (Toni) Bros Busquet | M | 1957 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Josep Canellas Isern | M | 1957 | Spain | Exp Doctor | Balsareny, Barcelona, Spain | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Lluis Capdevila Capdevila | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Teacher, mentally handicapped children | Details Other expeditions |
| Adria Font Alcaniz | M | 1945 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Electronics technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Joaquim (Kim) Prunes Santamaria | M | 1953 | Spain | Leader | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Textile factory manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaume Segura Tallo | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Trucking company administrator | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaume Sorolla Oliva | M | 1956 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesc Zamora Barra | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Electronics technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Serge Philippe Benet Mas | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Andorra-la-Vella, Andorra | Sporting goods salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Cesar Comas Gras | M | 1946 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Narcis Serrat Comerma | M | 1954 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA90302 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 65:215-216 (1991) | - |
| MAKA90302 | MM | - | - | - | 137:9 (Jan 1991) | - |
| MAKA90302 | OTH | Tomas, Manuel | Makalu 1990 | Arxiv del Centre Excursionista de Terrassa | 63:495-521 (Dec 1990) | - |
| MAKA90302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121504/Asia-Nepal-Makalu | - | - | - |