Makalu | 1990 W Pillar

A USA expedition to Makalu in 1990 via W Pillar, led by Catherine (Kitty) Calhoun. Summit reached on 18th May 1990. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 641
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA90101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Catherine (Kitty) Calhoun
Sponsor Makalu W Pillar Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 32nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Hille->Shipton Pass->Makalu BC
Basecamp Date 1990-03-26
Summit Date 1990-05-18
Summit Time 1145
Summit Days 53
Total Days 59
Termination Date 1990-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2900
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/03,5300m),C1(04/04,8950m),C2(14/04,6550m),C3(29/04,7380m),C4(14/05,7770m),Smt(18/05)
Route Notes BC on opposite side of Chago Glacier and slightly below high BC for normal route C1 near where ice begins on West Ridge C2 in ice cave on ridge before pillar proper C3 where rock gets steep: start of West Pillar proper C4 at top of steep rock. Fixed 9500 ft rope from C1 to C4 (almost entire route). 1st summit bid on 16th May by [Shutt], Calhoun and Grissom and reached 8100m but wind drove them back. Grissom now coughing badly so he descended while Calhoun stayed at C4 to rest and try again 2 days later. Luckily weather good on 18th and started up at 1:30 am in light snowfall but little wind; snowfall stopped but cloudy and misty. Strong wind at summit at 11:45 am and back to C4 at 4:45 pm. Safe route but lot of technical climbing. No avalanche or rock fall. All members reached C3. Left BC 24th May.
Accidents Lots of bronchitis and some frostnip among members
Achievement 1st woman on summit
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451010
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Catherine Howell (Kitty) Calhoun F 1960 USA Leader Denver, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John Thomas Culberson M 1961 USA Climber Bellingham, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kathleen Joyce (Kathy) Cosley F 1957 USA Climber Bellingham, Washington Alpine guide & climbing instructor Details Other expeditions
Colin Grissom M 1961 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Mark J. Houston M 1956 USA Climber Bellingham, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John Schutt M 1948 USA Climber Ferndale, Washington Geologist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA90101 AAJ Grissom, Kitty Calhoun A Himalayan Classic-Makalu's West Pillar - 65:7-13 (1991) -
MAKA90101 MM - - - 134:9 (Jul 1990) -
MAKA90101 MM - - - 136:12 (Nov 1990) -
MAKA90101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199100700/A-Himalayan-ClassicMakalus-West-Pillar - - -