Makalu | 1989 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Austria expedition to Makalu in 1989 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Bruno Roth Zaugg. Summit reached on 27th September 1989. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 379
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA89305
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Bruno Roth Zaugg
Sponsor Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland, W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-09-09
Summit Date 1989-09-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1989-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to wind and snow
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/09,5200m),C1(16/09,6200m),C2(17/09,6600m),xxx(27/09,8000m)
Route Notes BC at glacier's junction C1 at Chago Glacier C2 also Chago Glacier High point on North Face. Dacher and Studer to 6600m 11th Sept and pitched C1 but did not sleep there. Juan went to 6200m with Spanish (not Catalans) and also down to BC. Same day Zaugg and Schertler not feeling well and down to British BC. Zaugg and Studer on 13th to own BC and Juan up with Spanish to 6200m slept there. Then heavy snowfall and Juan down 14th. 16th Dacher and Studer, Zaugg and Schertler to 6200m and slept there (Spanish C1). 17th Dacher and Studer to 6600m while Zaugg and Schertler down to BC, where Juan still was and were joined on 18th by Dacher and Studer. 21st all 5 members up to C1 (Schertler, Juan, Zaugg, and Dacher and Studer) to C2. 22nd weather fog and a little snow so all down to BC. Zaugg made movies at 6400m before descending. 23rd Juan, Schertler and Zaugg left BC because snow conditions too difficult for their strength (Schertler went home while Juan and Zaugg to Thai beach). Spanish asked Studer and Dacher to join forces and according to note from Studer up to 7000m on 25th and 26th to Makalu La and 27th to 8000m and turned back at 10:30 am in fog and down to BC same day. 60 hrs snowfall with nearly 1m at BC. Studer left BC 30th Sept and flew home 7th Oct. Avalanches only few meters each side of camp at 6600m. Dacher remained with Spanish for his last chance on Makalu. After Studer left BC, Dacher went up to 7000m to retrieve gear and then left mountain. On 17th Oct, Dacher returned to KTM.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Chomalhari Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450776
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michel Dacher M 1933 W Germany Climber Peiting, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Johann Juan M 1949 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Cultural center staff member Details Other expeditions
Ernst Schertler M 1944 Austria Climber Dornbirn, Vorarlberg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wilfried Josef Studer M 1956 Austria Climber Wolfurt, Vorarlberg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Roth Zaugg M 1949 Switzerland Leader Niederteufen, St. Gallen, Switzerland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA89305 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:219 (1990) -
MAKA89305 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021902/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -