Makalu | 1989 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1989 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Ana Sese Lanau. Summit reached on 28th September 1989. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 376
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA89303
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Ana Sese Lanau
Sponsor Aragon Expedition to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-09-03
Summit Date 1989-09-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1989-10-27
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to windslab avalanche danger
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,5400m),C1(07/09,6200m),C2(15/09,7000m),C3(21/09,7600m),xxx(28/09,8000m)
Route Notes BC at high BC C1 at Chago Glacier C2 below Makalu La C3 above Makalu La on North Face High point on North Face. Main problem was wind from east dumping snow over S Face on to N Face. 1st summit bid from C3 28th Sept and 2nd on 8th Oct. 1st reached 8000m and 2nd 7800m but wind slab avalanche danger turned them back. Both bids made by Valles; 1st with 4 Spanish members of other team and 2nd with 2 members of other Spanish team. 15 Oct 3 remaining members to C1. 17 Oct Larma and Zamarbide to C2 and 19 Oct to about C3 (but camp not there) so bived. 20 Oct biv slightly higher still looking for camp. Much wind and cold (Larma frostbitten thumb) and no tent or biv sack so impossible to cook in wind. Down on 21 Oct. Left BC 27th Oct.
Accidents None to Oct 10 when Valles left BC
Achievement -
Agency Amtrek
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450777
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jose Luis Escolano Hurtado M 1961 Spain Climber Jaca, Huesca, Spain Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Cecilio A. Fernandez Grado M 1959 Spain Climber Jaca, Huesca, Spain Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Ana Sese Lanau F 1964 Spain Leader Zaragoza City, Zaragoza, Spain Geology student & primary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Jorge Valle Gerhold M 1962 Spain Exp Doctor Zaragoza City, Zaragoza, Spain Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Carles Valles Ocana M 1958 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Wholesale shoe salesman Details Other expeditions
Rafael Larma Lacasta M 1953 Spain Climber Ainsa, Huesca, Spain Worker, climbing clothing factory Details Other expeditions
Anxton Zamarbide Areta M 1959 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA89303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:219 (1990) -
MAKA89303 - Valles, Carles La Realidad de un Sueno L'Aixernador Editions, Argentona, Spain - V121
MAKA89303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021902/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -