Makalu | 1989 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A UK expedition to Makalu in 1989 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Michael Woolridge, Andy Fanshawe. Summit reached on 9th October 1989. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 380
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA89302
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 SE Ridge (to 6200m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Michael Woolridge, Andy Fanshawe
Sponsor Blackspur Makalu Expedition 1989
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ireland, Netherlands, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-08-27
Summit Date 1989-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1989-10-20
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to windslab avalanche danger and high winds
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Kangchungste (Makalu II) (MAK2-893-01); climbed Chago (CHAG-893-01) and Yaupa (YAUP-893-01)
Campsites BC(27/08,4800m),C1(30/08,5400m),xxx(09/10,7500m)
Route Notes BC at Tangmar, south-southwest of Barun Pokhari ABC at high BC Makalu high point at 7500m on North Face Kangchungtse high point on a summit atop West Face. After 13 Oct Collister and Griffin went up Makalu to point where route emerged above Makalu La (this season Makalu La was too dangerous and route taken went south of La and doubled back slightly, then onto North (or NE Face). About 15 Oct reached about same point as Collister and Jessop on 9 Oct. No accidents, etc. Abandoned it not so much because of wind, which there was but dangerous windslab. Kangchungtse not attempted after 13 Oct. Had no fixed camps at all, but did not leave tent at ABC's shelf from time to time. First went to ABC on 30 Aug while others up north-northeast of BC; this was acclimatization and recce - "everybody did something different." 1st 3 weeks spent looking around. Saunders and Sustad started from 6500m (well up Chago Glacier) on 1:00 am 26th Sept and reached 7600m at 8:00 pm, then went to Makalu La; had done new route on West Face of Kangchungtse; hoped to return to biv at 6500m but weather diverted them to Makalu La, where biv from 2:30 to 5:00 am of 28th without sleeping bag or other gear. Took whole day to get back to 6500m in very poor visibility and another day in 6000m, all in storm conditions. Irvine and Jessop got to 6200m at start of SE Ridge of Makalu at same time Saunders and Sustad were on Kangchungtse (late Sept). On normal route of Makalu, numerous times just below and to C3 at 7500m but never beyond by time S and W left BC on 13 Oct, worn out and discouraged. 4 left at Makalu but they were leaving BC on 20 Oct.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Rover Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450788
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Annette C. Carmichael F 1961 UK Climber London, England Radio production assistant (BBC) Details Other expeditions
Rob J. Collister M 1947 UK Climber Betwys-y-Coed, Gwynedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrew Robert (Andy) Fanshawe M 1963 UK Co-Leader Manchester, England Writer Details Other expeditions
Lindsay Nigel Griffin M 1949 UK Climber Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales Mathematics teacher & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Susan Hill F 1956 UK Member Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England Student Details Other expeditions
Gillian Irvine F 1960 UK Exp Doctor Aviemore, Inverness, Scotland Physician Details Other expeditions
Hamish Irvine M 1964 UK Climber Aviemore, Inverness, Scotland Fish farmer Details Other expeditions
William Ulric Jessop M 1963 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Programmer Details Other expeditions
Anthony Victor (Vic) Saunders M 1950 UK Climber London, England Architect Details Other expeditions
Stephen F. Sustad M 1960 USA Climber London, England Joiner Details Other expeditions
Cornelius (Kees) 't Hooft M 1953 Netherlands Climber London, England Film editor Details Other expeditions
Calvin Torrans M 1943 Ireland Climber Bray, Wicklow, Ireland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michael Timothy Woolridge M 1960 UK Co-Leader Nant Peris, Gywnedd, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA89302 AAJ Saunders, Victor - - 64:218-219 (1990) -
MAKA89302 HJ Saunders, A. V. Chaos - 47:24-29 (1989-1990) -
MAKA89302 AJ Saunders, A. V. Chaos - 95:17-23 (1990-1991) -
MAKA89302 - Saunders, Victor No Place to Fall Hodder & Stoughton, London - -
MAKA89302 MM Fanshawe, Andy & Saunders, Victor Going Scottish - 131:20-25 (Jan 1990) -
MAKA89302 MM - - - 130:7 (Nov 1989) -
MAKA89302 MM - - - 131:5 (Jan 1990) -
MAKA89302 - Collister, Rob Over the Hills & Far Away The Ernest Press, UK - -
MAKA89302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021804/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Traverse-Attempt-and-Kangchungtse-Attempt-via-West-Face - - -
MAKA89302 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/47/4/chaos/ - - -
MAKA89302 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1990-91_files/AJ%201990%2017-23%20Saunders%20Makalu.pdf - - -