Makalu | 1989 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1989 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Pere Giro Beltran. Summit reached on 15th October 1989. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 377
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA89301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Pere Giro Beltran
Sponsor Makalu Penedes
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-08-26
Summit Date 1989-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 50
Total Days 47
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due bad conditions
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits 2 small peaks
Campsites BC(26/08,5400m),C1(03/09,6100m),C2(12/09,6950m),C3(26/09,7600m),xxx(15/10,8100m)
Route Notes BC at high BC site (glacier's junction) C1 at plateau of Chago Glacier C2 on northwest side below Makalu La C3 at 1 hour above Makalu La High point on North Face Tried to go to summit from C4 four times. 1st on 27th Sept to 8000m; then 3 Oct (but could not reach Makalu because of wind slab danger following big snowfall after 27 Sept); 8 Oct when got to 7900m; and 15 Oct to 8100m in good weather but still dangerous from windslab and deep snow. On 15th one man fell into crevasse and were many avalanches; also was very cold: on 8 Oct was -35 degrees near 7900m in 100 kph wind so very cold fingers and toes. Before 15th Oct attempt had decided this was the last one with little time left and much effort spent. All except one had at least 2 nights in C3. Pierre Beghin came to this expedition's C3 in descent, unable to talk very coherently in his exhaustion; he spent night in their tent. Michel Dacher climbed in 1st and 3rd attempt with this team; 3rd time one American with them. This team was first to arrive and fix ropes, which others used.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450794
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Xavier Bages Gallego M 1956 Spain Climber Guardiola de Font-Rubi, Barcelona, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Pere Giro Beltran M 1957 Spain Leader Vilafranca del Penedes, Barcelona, Spain Salesman Details Other expeditions
Josep Maria Jane Caralt M 1955 Spain Climber Vendrell, Tarragona, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Xavier Lamas Miralles M 1963 Spain Exp Doctor Barcelona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Josep Olle Sanchez M 1964 Spain Climber Vilafranca del Penedes, Barcelona, Spain Sales manager Details Other expeditions
Lluis Rafols Pujol M 1960 Spain Climber Avinyonet del Penedes, Barcelona, Spain Technician on poultry farm Details Other expeditions
Josep Riba Parellada M 1962 Spain Climber Vilafranca del Penedes, Barcelona, Spain Bricklayer Details Other expeditions
Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA89301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:219 (1990) -
MAKA89301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021902/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts - - -