Makalu | 1989 W Pillar

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1989 via W Pillar, led by Jose Luis Zuloaga. Summit reached on 18th May 1989. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 826
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA89102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jose Luis Zuloaga
Sponsor Basque Makalu-Baruntse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-04-02
Summit Date 1989-05-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 46
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1989-05-21
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8350m due to insufficient equipment for final section
High Point (m) 8350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,5350m),C1A(05/04,5800m),C1B(07/04,5900m),C2(20/04,6550m),C3(04/05,7350m),Biv(17/05,7750m),xxx(18/05,8350m)
Route Notes BC at junction of two glaciers C1 at start of West Pillar C2 at bottom of pillar's steep part C3 on pillar Biv at top of pillar High point at bottom of final very steep section. Big snowstorm as arrived at Barun La and many porters deserted. C1 first at 5800m but wind destroyed tent and made camp higher behind rocks. Entire pillar covered in ice, very bad conditions, strong wind, 1 man sick, 1200m rope fixed: took long time to make route route to C2. C3 set on 4 May but not slept in because storm coming up up and down to BC. Slept in 11 May. 18th tried for top (all four members) and reached junction with SE Buttress in good weather at 6:00 am, five hours after left biv, and little above this found Czech body [Karel Schubert] from '76 spring, sitting placidly facing climbers who came up. This impressed us a lot, but kept on up, more than 50m - last near vertical section more difficult than they could manage with little rope and only 2 pitons left and too dangerous from avalanching of loose snow, so gave up. Batard had used ropes in most difficult sections [Spring 88]. 18 May 2 men slept in C3, 2 in biv. 2 to BC on 19th, 2 to BC on 20th and climb finished. Rescued a (Belgian Van Lint) with frostbite.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450644
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Ignacio (Axto) Apellaniz Aguiriano M 1954 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain City government staff member Details Other expeditions
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito M 1952 Spain Climber Durango, Vizcaya, Spain Unemployed biologist Details Other expeditions
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Zuloaga M 1954 Spain Leader Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA89102 AAJ Zuloaga, Jose Luis - - 64:218 (1990) -
MAKA89102 - Valles, Carles La Realidad de un Sueno L'Aixernador Editions, Argentona, Spain - V121
MAKA89102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021801/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Buttress-Attempt - - -