Makalu | 1989 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Belgium expedition to Makalu in 1989 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Jos Dewint. Summit reached on 25th April 1989. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 825
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA89101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Belgium
Leaders Jos Dewint
Sponsor Dhaulagiri Expedition 1989
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Netherlands
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-03-03
Summit Date 1989-04-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 53
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1989-04-26
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7700m due to Van Lint's frostbite
High Point (m) 7700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-891-05)
Campsites BC(03,5400m),Dep2(15/03,5900m),C1(25/03,6350m),C2(10/04,6700m),xxx(25/04,7700m)
Route Notes BC at normal high BC C1 on big flat glacier C2 below Makalu La High point north side of NW Ridge. "A very beautiful mountain and normal route very beautiful to climb" so stayed on with Daniel for "real try to summit" while others wanted comfort and left. 1st try to reach C2 3 April because of the altitude and was too soon to reach it due to wind and snow. C2 small tent only. 23 Arpil Van Doorsselaere and Van Lint from BC to try for summit. 24th to C2, 25th took sleeping bags, tent, food, etc to make C3 tent at Makalu La. Started at 11:30 am on 25th heavily laden, last time following in darkness, but Van Lint, climbing with one crampon, did not reach La (Daniel had the tent). Daniel even went above La while Van Lint went down brief distance to find place for sleeping bag. Van Lint had frostbitten toes from previous night but didn't realize it till that night they reached C1. "I don't regret any moment but I don't go back: There are so many mountains. I got almost to the pass, I know the way to the summit - for me its enough." Made 2 depots above BC at 5800m and 5900m; depot 1 used only for few days but depot 2 slept in quite often. Blue ice all up Chago Glacier; no snow. Most members left BC 23 or 24 April to go to Dhaulagiri because sponsors insisted: chances of Makalu success poor because of winds which destroyed tents at BC, depot 2 and C1. At this time no one had gone above C2 which had been established by Bollaert and Kok and reached same day by Jos Dewint and next day by Van Doorsselaere and Van Lint.
Accidents Van Lint frostbite and others illnesses
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450621
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rudi Anna R. Bollaert M 1967 Belgium Climber Hamme, Belgium Student, electronics Details Other expeditions
Ignace Demeyer M 1958 Belgium Climber Mechelen, Belgium Physician Details Other expeditions
Jos Dewint M 1949 Belgium Leader Brussels, Belgium Government official Details Other expeditions
Johannes (Hans) Kok M 1960 Netherlands Climber Temse, Netherlands Machinery designer Details Other expeditions
Linda Le Bon F 1964 Belgium Climber Luik, Belgium Army sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Frank Mattens M 1957 Belgium Climber Asse, Belgium Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Moreau Vincent M 1967 Belgium Climber Gozee, Belgium Army Sergeant (mechanic) Details Other expeditions
Bernard Mousny M 1955 Belgium Climber Luik, Belgium Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Veerle Smits F 1962 Belgium Climber Deurne, Belgium Physician Details Other expeditions
Luc Stinis M 1952 Belgium Climber Melsbroek, Brabant, Belgium Hydraulic technician Details Other expeditions
Daniel Van Doorsselaere M 1954 Belgium Climber Lokeren, Belgium Employee of trade union Details Other expeditions
Jan Van Lint M 1954 Belgium Deputy Leader Mortsel, Belgium Architect Details Other expeditions
Hans Verbruggen M 1961 Belgium Climber Breendonk, Belgium Journalist Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA89101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:218 (1990) -
MAKA89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021802/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -