Makalu | 1988 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1988 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Savio Giacomelli. Summit reached on 3rd May 1988. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 64
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA88102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Savio Giacomelli
Sponsor Valcamonica Expedition to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-04-07
Summit Date 1988-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 26
Total Days 29
Termination Date 1988-05-06
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8300m due to lack of time (fixed end date)
High Point (m) 8300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5400m),C1(12/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7400m),C4(02/05,7800m),xxx(03/05,8300m)
Route Notes BC above junction of glacier (Messner camp) C1 above icefall C2 at bottom of couloir below Makalu La C3 at Makalu La C4 below couloir on last steep slope. Left BC 29th April to C2, 30th to C3; 1st May [Ducoli, Bonali, Guzza and Lhakpa Gyalzen] tried direct for top and got to 8150m; too late, returned to C3. 2nd May made C4 [at 7800m] for 2nd attempt, Lhakpa Gyalzen then descended to C3. 3rd May Ducoli, Bonali and Guzza tried for summit and reached 8300m, when fog and fresh snow preventing seeing where to go. 4th May Guzza to BC, while Bonali waited in C3 for Ducoli solo attempt from C4; he reached only 7900-8000m on 4th May, too tired and gave up, down to C3. 5th May Bonali and Ducoli to BC. All to BC 5th May and left BC 6th May. No more climbing. These men were team's strongest and needed few day's rest and all had to return to homes and jobs. This first time in Himalaya for all members and they learned a lot.
Accidents Ducoli frostbitten fingers and toes (will lose a little of toe); Giacomelli altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450263
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Giacomo (Gino) Baccanelli M 1957 Italy Climber Piancogno, Brescia, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Battistino (Battista) Bonali M 1962 Italy Climber Bienno, Brescia, Italy Factory electrician Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Buila M 1954 Italy Climber Breno, Brescia, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions
Giancarlo Domenighini M 1946 Italy BC Manager Breno, Brescia, Italy Manager Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Ducoli M 1960 Italy Climber Breno, Brescia, Italy Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Alessandro (Sandro) Ghitti M 1948 Italy Exp Doctor Malegno, Brescia, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Savio Giacomelli M 1954 Italy Leader Breno, Brescia, Italy Building supplies salesman Details Other expeditions
Guglielmo Guzza M 1950 Italy Climber Valle di Saviore, Brescia, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Franco Solina M 1932 Italy Climber Brescia, Italy Journalist Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA88102 AAJ Giacomelli, Savio - - 63:188-190 (1989) -
MAKA88102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198918804/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -