Makalu | 1987 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Poland expedition to Makalu in 1987 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Andrzej Machnik. Summit reached on 20th January 1988. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 323
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA87401
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1987
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Andrzej Machnik
Sponsor Polish Winter Makalu Expedition 1987-88
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Brazil, Canada, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-12-08
Summit Date 1988-01-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1988-01-25
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/12,4850m),ABC(10/12,5200m),C1(16/12,5750m),C2(20/12,6400m),C3(31/12,6850m),xxx(20-22/01,7500m)
Route Notes BC west of Barun Pokhari (protected from wind but no water) ABC at mouth of Chago Glacier just north of junction C1 at small rock rib between the 2 glaciers (standard site route) C2 at snow cave in small cwm below 6500m Col C3 at snow cave at beginning of steep section and couloir west of Makalu La High point at start of NW Ridge. Made C2 west of Kangchungtse because too long carries and too much fixed rope for team of only 4 climbing members to go normal route. Above C3 climbed steeper of 2 couloirs by passing Makalu La. Intended to pitch C4 at about 7500m but never actually set up camp. Evans went up on 20th with camp gear and on 22nd retrieved it. In 1st half of January were terrible windstorms and on 12th Jan heavy snowfall. Even in late Jan when clearing mountain, often could not stand up. This is Machnik's 4th winter expedition and never such severe winds; even down to ABC 60-80 mph gusts and at C3 area up to 100 mph and below rocks off mountain. Had lost time early in expedition carrying up equipment for big expedition but only 4 members actually did serious climbing after others claimed illness and stayed on at ABC/BC. 4 members were the real climbers and Jedlinski got fed up and quit early. "Four-man expedition with big anchor behind" (anchor = members at base complaining about supplies and waiting to go home). Doctor not able to climb much because looking after sick men. Evans went on 22nd from C3 to try for top with biv at 7700m or more and set highest point possible but terrible cold winds (-15 degrees F and constant 60-70 mph). Sherpas: none above ABC till 3 went to C1 to help clear off gear. Nine member team soon composed of only four climbing members, mostly because of illness. C2 was pitched in a small cwm west of Kangchungtse directly below 6500m col in ridge between Kangchungtse and Chago because for small team load carries would be too long and too much fixed rope would be needed if they followed standard route exactly. Above C3, they climbed the steeper of two couloirs bypassing Makalu La and intended to place C4 at start of NW Ridge at 7500m, but never actually pitched camp, although Evans dumped supply load at site on 20 Jan. On 22 Jan he returned to 7500m to try for summit with a bivouac at 7700m or higher, but fierce cold winds of up to 100 mph prevented him from doing more than retrieving supplies.
Accidents Wesolouski had paratyphoid and Fligiel heart trouble, nothing else
Achievement Brondolin claims Brazilian altitude record of 7200m
Agency Basanta Adventure Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450158
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Thomaz A. Brandolin M 1960 Brazil Climber Sao Paulo, Brazil Photographer Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Evans M 1961 Canada/USA Climber Palo Alto, California Doctoral candidate in geology Details Other expeditions
Grzegorz Fligiel M 1949 Poland Climber Wielowies, Silesia, Poland Engineer, agricultural Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Jedlinski M 1946 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Julian Kubowicz M 1950 Poland BC Manager Gliwice, Poland Motor mechanic & driver Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Machnik M 1953 Poland Leader Gliwice, Poland Geographer Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Terlikowski M 1951 Poland Deputy Leader Dabrowa Gornicza, Katowice, Poland Mining engineer Details Other expeditions
Stefan Wesolowski M 1958 USA Climber Miami Beach, Florida Physicist Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Witkowski M 1954 Poland Exp Doctor Gliwice, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA87401 AAJ Evans, Andrew - - 62:194 (1988) -
MAKA87401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819401/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Winter-Attempt - - -