Makalu | 1987 NW Ridge (acclimatization rte) (to 6500m)

A Austria expedition to Makalu in 1987 via NW Ridge (acclimatization rte) (to 6500m), led by Wilfried Studer. Summit reached on 14th October 1987. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 884
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA87303
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge (acclimatization rte) (to 6500m)
Route 2 W Pillar (permit route, did not attempt)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Wilfried Studer
Sponsor Mountain Guide Expedition to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-10-11
Summit Date 1987-10-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 3
Total Days 8
Termination Date 1987-10-19
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to bad weather and deep snow on W Pillar route
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/10,5300m),C1(13/10,6500m),xxx(14,17/10,6500m)
Route Notes BC on two glaciers' junction C1 on normal route. Team first began on normal route for acclimatization before going to W Pillar route (their permit route). French-American team arrived (route permit holders) and demanded Austrians vacate route. After big snowstorm, Austrians abandoned climb not wishing to attemp pillar route with so much snow. Planned to go to SE Ridge but Swiss had its permit so interested in W Pillar and to do this acclimatize by going on normal route; also go to Makalu La to observe conditions. 13th Oct went to 6500m on normal route (normal C2) and pitched one tent as acclimatization camp and slept one night. 14th French-US team arrived and sent them off their route. Studer froze his feet in climb to 6500m and left. 17th again up to 6500m by Friedl and Marte and heavy snowfall started. Brought down tent on 18th and big storm continued so 20th left BC to return to KTM. Strong winds started up now also on 18th and these would make W Pillar climb impossible immediately and wanted to take no risk. Studer & Morik (who did not climb) left BC 17th Oct. Studer - 27 Oct 87 Rudi Mayerhofer = acting leader of Makalu, at Shakti. Studer in KTM 5 days now; some frostbite in toes; leaves Nepal 29 Oct. Rest of expedition should arrive KTM 28 or 29 Oct, but snow conditions doubtlessly means delay. Report 4 dead on Makalu probably French-US team - ministry has garbled report.
Accidents Studer slight frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Chomalhari Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450060
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge (acclimatization rte) (to 6500m)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Markus Fridel M 1962 Austria Climber Elmen, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lothar Marte M 1959 Austria Climber Feldkirch, Vorarlberg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Mayerhofer M 1957 Austria Climber Bludenz, Vorarlberg, Austria Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Anton Morik M 1949 Austria Member Frastanz, Vorarlberg, Austria Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Wilfried Josef Studer M 1956 Austria Leader Wolfurt, Vorarlberg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA87303 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:193 (1988) -
MAKA87303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819303/Asia-Nepal-Austrian-Makalu-Attempt - - -