Makalu | 1987 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A USA expedition to Makalu in 1987 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Glenn Porzak. Summit reached on 12th May 1987. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 249
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA87102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Glenn Porzak
Sponsor 1987 American Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 25th,26th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Sedua->Shipton's Col
Basecamp Date 1987-04-03
Summit Date 1987-05-12
Summit Time 1115
Summit Days 39
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5330m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(11/05,7750m),Smt(12,16/05)
Route Notes BC at junction of Barun & Chago Glacier C1 near "o" of Chago Glacier C2 west-northwest of Makalu La (Messner's C1) C3 at Makalu Col C4 south of "L" of Makalu La. Climb above C2 the difficulty began and fixed rope this section with strenuous jummaring to col. C3 put in on 29th and first summit bid planned to start from there on 30th but 5-day storm began and virus attacked. 2nd May was summit date planned and C4 sited and started with gear. All down to BC. Up again on 7th onwards; had mixed weather conditions with fierce winds on 10th. Left C4 on 12th at 3:30 am and on top 11:15 am in lovely weather following French route basically above C4. Rotten snow on summit ridge down to C2 on 12th summit day. Neptune's party to summit on 16th from Makalu La; on top at 1:40 pm. Had to send people up to get Moti Lal down after got snowblindness and couldn't take care of himself on a mountain, fell several times. Virus which ran through team took Read away early and Cooley didn't acclimatize and left early too.
Accidents Moti Lal snowblindness on summit; Neptune frostbitten fingers; Porzak fell into crevasse
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449905
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael F. (Mike) Browning M 1952 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
John Cooley M 1942 USA Climber Breckenridge, Colorado Ski salesman Details Other expeditions
Stefan V. Goldberg M 1955 USA Exp Doctor Boulder, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
David Herrick M 1949 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
Gary Robert Neptune M 1945 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Owner, mountain equipment sales company Details Other expeditions
Christopher J. (Chris) Pizzo M 1949 USA Climber Golden, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Glenn Edward Porzak M 1948 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
Edward (Ed) Ramey M 1947 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Attorney Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Sandy) Read M 1955 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Student, business Details Other expeditions
Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa M 1959 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Nuru (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1955 Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA87102 AAJ Porzak, Glenn Makalu - 62:29-36 (1988) -
MAKA87102 HJ Porzak, Glenn - - 44:60-67 (1986-1987) -
MAKA87102 MM - - - 116:10 (Jul 1987) -
MAKA87102 SMT Porzak, Glenn Victory on Makalu Summit Magazine 33-6:1-7 (Dec 1987) -
MAKA87102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198802900/Makalu - - -
MAKA87102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/10/makalu/ - - -