Makalu | 1987 Makalu La-NW Ridge
A USA expedition to Makalu in 1987 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Glenn Porzak. Summit reached on 12th May 1987. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 249 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA87102 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1987 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Glenn Porzak |
| Sponsor | 1987 American Makalu Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 25th,26th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Tumlingtar->Sedua->Shipton's Col |
| Basecamp Date | 1987-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1987-05-12 |
| Summit Time | 1115 |
| Summit Days | 39 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8485 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,5330m),C1(10/04,6100m),C2(18/04,6600m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(11/05,7750m),Smt(12,16/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at junction of Barun & Chago Glacier C1 near "o" of Chago Glacier C2 west-northwest of Makalu La (Messner's C1) C3 at Makalu Col C4 south of "L" of Makalu La. Climb above C2 the difficulty began and fixed rope this section with strenuous jummaring to col. C3 put in on 29th and first summit bid planned to start from there on 30th but 5-day storm began and virus attacked. 2nd May was summit date planned and C4 sited and started with gear. All down to BC. Up again on 7th onwards; had mixed weather conditions with fierce winds on 10th. Left C4 on 12th at 3:30 am and on top 11:15 am in lovely weather following French route basically above C4. Rotten snow on summit ridge down to C2 on 12th summit day. Neptune's party to summit on 16th from Makalu La; on top at 1:40 pm. Had to send people up to get Moti Lal down after got snowblindness and couldn't take care of himself on a mountain, fell several times. Virus which ran through team took Read away early and Cooley didn't acclimatize and left early too. |
| Accidents | Moti Lal snowblindness on summit; Neptune frostbitten fingers; Porzak fell into crevasse |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449905 |
| Year | 1987 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael F. (Mike) Browning | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| John Cooley | M | 1942 | USA | Climber | Breckenridge, Colorado | Ski salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Stefan V. Goldberg | M | 1955 | USA | Exp Doctor | Boulder, Colorado | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Moti Lal Gurung | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sedua, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| David Herrick | M | 1949 | USA | Climber | Denver, Colorado | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Gary Robert Neptune | M | 1945 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Owner, mountain equipment sales company | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher J. (Chris) Pizzo | M | 1949 | USA | Climber | Golden, Colorado | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Glenn Edward Porzak | M | 1948 | USA | Leader | Boulder, Colorado | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Edward (Ed) Ramey | M | 1947 | USA | Climber | Denver, Colorado | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander (Sandy) Read | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Denver, Colorado | Student, business | Details Other expeditions |
| Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa | M | 1959 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Nuru (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khunde, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa | M | 1955 | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA87102 | AAJ | Porzak, Glenn | Makalu | - | 62:29-36 (1988) | - |
| MAKA87102 | HJ | Porzak, Glenn | - | - | 44:60-67 (1986-1987) | - |
| MAKA87102 | MM | - | - | - | 116:10 (Jul 1987) | - |
| MAKA87102 | SMT | Porzak, Glenn | Victory on Makalu | Summit Magazine | 33-6:1-7 (Dec 1987) | - |
| MAKA87102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198802900/Makalu | - | - | - |
| MAKA87102 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/10/makalu/ | - | - | - |