Makalu | 1987 S Face (Yugoslav 1975 rte)

A Netherlands expedition to Makalu in 1987 via S Face (Yugoslav 1975 rte), led by Edwin van Nieuwkerk. Summit reached on 4th May 1987. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 266
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA87101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (Yugoslav 1975 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders Edwin van Nieuwkerk
Sponsor Nomad Makalu Expedition 1987
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Arun->Sedua->Barun La->Shershon to BC
Basecamp Date 1987-03-22
Summit Date 1987-05-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1987-05-12
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to exhaustion from winds
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,4900m),C1(24/03,5800m),C2(02/04,6700m),C3(20/04,7100m),xxx(04/05,7600m)
Route Notes BC at 4900m before Barun Glacier C1 at 5800m east side of point 5860m C2 at 6700m at top of snow ridge in ice cave C3 at 7100m at same as Yugoslav C3 High point at 7600m at start of South Face. C1 tent collapsed by wind 12-20 April. 4 members (Moerman, Oefner, Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk) had reached site of C3 on 12 April but illness and difficulty of finding site on which to pitch tent sent them down to BC. Some members started up again on 18th April, repaired tent and slept in C1. 19th to C2 and 20th occupied C2 at "anxious" site as Yugoslav camp, which apparently had not been a problem for Yugoslavs in Autumn season with perhaps better snow conditions. Lack of hard snow on face was serious problem for Dutch. Oefner and Ubbink stayed at C3 on 20th while other 2 descended to BC; both sick (one altitude and 1 stomach). 21st Oefner and Ubbink fixed rope but not far because of big powdered snow avalanche rushing down mountain (no physical damage but brought very cold temperature and discouraged climbers). 22nd fixed more rope on difficult traverse and Oefner fell 5m but saved by well placed piton. "Were same tricky traverses" but rock very solid. 23rd down to BC because they tired and other 2 were sick and could not go up. Moerman and Oefner up to C3 in 3 days and tried to fix rope above previous high point but very windy and cold. 2 May Oefner to end of ropes at 7500m while Moerman down and Oefner also down. 4th May Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk, one day behind other two, up to highest point 7600m (Yugoslav C2), but 5th May back to BC tired; had planned to fix rope to slightly above traverse and then go to top alpine-style, but illness and exhaustion defeated them. All in BC; decided now to make summit push from high point (7600m). All 5 members to C2 (9th May to C1, 10th to C2). Oefner and Ubbink supported by others to make summit bid. 12th May Oefner, Ubbink and Van Nieuwkerk reached C3 planning now to biv at top of fixed ropes, but too tired and descended instead. To C2 12 May, 13th BC. Lost too much energy fighting wind and not enough manpower because of illness (Moerman had continuing altitude problem). With little more manpower and better weather, original climbing plan would have worked. Plan to return with six members in 1988 if can find financing so quickly.
Accidents Moerman altitude illness; Oefner short fall but uninjured
Achievement 1st Dutch attempt on Makalu
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449897
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (yugoslav 1975 rte)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jaap Moerman M 1957 Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Musician, climber & sports-goods promoter Details Other expeditions
Edmond Ignatius Oefner M 1958 Netherlands Climber Sassenheim, Netherlands Teacher, school & mental hospital worker Details Other expeditions
Joost Ubbink M 1957 Netherlands Exp Doctor Amsterdam, Netherlands Physician & outdoor equipment designer Details Other expeditions
Hiltsie Wietske (Hillie) De Vries F 1959 Netherlands BC Manager Amsterdam, Netherlands Saleswoman, outdoor equipment Details Other expeditions
Edwin Van Nieuwkerk M 1960 Netherlands Leader Amsterdam, Netherlands Medical student Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA87101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:193 (1988) -
MAKA87101 HJ Van Nieuwkerk, Edwin The Dutch Nomad-Makalu Expedition, 1987 - 44:170-171 (1986-1987) -
MAKA87101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819301/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -
MAKA87101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/27/expeditions-and-notes-44/ - - -