Makalu | 1986 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Makalu in 1986 via SE Ridge, led by Noboru Yamada. Summit reached on 9th December 1986. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 244
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA86401
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Noboru Yamada
Sponsor Japan Winter Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-11-16
Summit Date 1986-12-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 33
Termination Date 1986-12-19
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather, exhaustion and lack of food
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/11,4800m),Biv1(01/12,6650m),Biv2(07/12,6800m),Biv3(08/12,7400m),xxx(09,11/12,7500m)
Route Notes BC just south of Barun Pokhari Biv1 at South Col Biv2 just below SE Ridge on variation of normal route Biv3 on SE Ridge High point at SE Ridge. Until end Nov did acclimatization climbs from BC. 1st Dec started up first 3 days slept on S Col while went above and then down to BC leaving tent at Col packed up. 6th Dec up again in summit bid and slept at S Col. 7th Dec up by variation of normal route (descended normal way). 9th Dec to 7500m on ridge but not possible to go further because of wind (not terribly strong) and clouds that badly restricted visibility ("we could not see"), so returned to 7400m to sleep. 10th Dec stayed at 7400m, again windy (strong wind now) and cloudy. 11th Dec again to 7500m but down (now lightly snowing and cloudy) to 7200m. 12th Dec to BC in strong wind at 11:00 pm arrival. Waited till 19th (20th clear weather!). Not difficult route. Did not attempt S Face at all (original objective); decided impossible for 2-man team in winter.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Express
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449750
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuhira Saito M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Leader Numata, Gunma, Japan Technician, electrical Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA86401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:225 (1987) -
MAKA86401 IWA - - - :269 (1987) -
MAKA86401 IWA - - - :52-53 (1987) -
MAKA86401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722502/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Winter-Ascent - - -