Makalu | 1986 Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face
A France expedition to Makalu in 1986 via Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face, led by Raymond Renaud. Summit reached on 13th October 1986. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 901 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA86304 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Raymond Renaud |
| Sponsor | Makalu 1986 French Expedition Raymond Renaud |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-09-15 |
| Summit Date | 1986-10-13 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 32 |
| Termination Date | 1986-10-17 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8000m due to winds and exhaustion of team |
| High Point (m) | 8000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 8 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(15/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5200m),C2(19/09,5700m),C3.ABC(23/09,6200m),C4(25/09,6950m),C5(02/10,7400m),C6(13/10,8000m),xxx(13/10,8000m) |
| Route Notes | BC at "Hillary BC" C1 on moraine of Chago Glacier below Messner C2 at end of moraine, below icefall of Chago Glacier ABC/C3 at Chago Glacier C4 on steep face to Makalu La C5 at Makalu La C6 on NW Ridge High point on North Face. After 13th Oct, strong, very cold wind and not possible to go higher. Renard waited in C5 till 17th Oct and then down when winds continued. Pasang Norbu same frostbitten toes on 13 Oct but will heal; kitchen boy sick, went down to village and became unconscious but still alive; Wood cutter for kitchen (Kancha Gurung?) died below BC (became sick at BC); no other problems. Collet used oxygen because of blood condition but not seriously ill - used as preventive measure. |
| Accidents | Pasang Norbu frostbitten toes on Oct 13 but will heal; kitchen boy sick, went down to village and became unconscious but still alive; woodcutter for kitchen died below BC; no other problems |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | International/Alpine |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449693 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge-n face |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jean Pierre Chaligne | M | 1937 | France | Climber | Grenoble, Isere, France | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rene Collet | M | 1932 | France | Deputy Leader | Paris, France | Administrator (businessman) | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Collodin | M | 1959 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Gilles-Naves | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Fontenay-le-Fleury, Yvelines, France | Marketing manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Marie Herzog | F | 1950 | France | Member | Paris, France | Graphic artist | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Francois Manificat | M | 1950 | France | Climber | Montceau-les-Mines, Saone-et-Loire, France | Radiologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Nicole Poutrel | F | 1945 | France | Climber | Sofitel-de-Val d'Isere, Savoie, France | Secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Raymond Renaud | M | 1941 | France | Leader | La Salle-les-Alpes, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerard Vionnet-Fausset | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Ziegler | M | 1934 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Village mayor? | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kancha Gurung | M | - | Nepal | Woodcutter | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA86304 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 61:223 (1987) | - |
| MAKA86304 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722301/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt | - | - | - |