Makalu | 1986 Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face

A France expedition to Makalu in 1986 via Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face, led by Raymond Renaud. Summit reached on 13th October 1986. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 901
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA86304
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Raymond Renaud
Sponsor Makalu 1986 French Expedition Raymond Renaud
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-15
Summit Date 1986-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1986-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to winds and exhaustion of team
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,4850m),C1(17/09,5200m),C2(19/09,5700m),C3.ABC(23/09,6200m),C4(25/09,6950m),C5(02/10,7400m),C6(13/10,8000m),xxx(13/10,8000m)
Route Notes BC at "Hillary BC" C1 on moraine of Chago Glacier below Messner C2 at end of moraine, below icefall of Chago Glacier ABC/C3 at Chago Glacier C4 on steep face to Makalu La C5 at Makalu La C6 on NW Ridge High point on North Face. After 13th Oct, strong, very cold wind and not possible to go higher. Renard waited in C5 till 17th Oct and then down when winds continued. Pasang Norbu same frostbitten toes on 13 Oct but will heal; kitchen boy sick, went down to village and became unconscious but still alive; Wood cutter for kitchen (Kancha Gurung?) died below BC (became sick at BC); no other problems. Collet used oxygen because of blood condition but not seriously ill - used as preventive measure.
Accidents Pasang Norbu frostbitten toes on Oct 13 but will heal; kitchen boy sick, went down to village and became unconscious but still alive; woodcutter for kitchen died below BC; no other problems
Achievement -
Agency International/Alpine
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449693
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge-n face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean Pierre Chaligne M 1937 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Rene Collet M 1932 France Deputy Leader Paris, France Administrator (businessman) Details Other expeditions
Pierre Collodin M 1959 France Climber Paris, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alain Gilles-Naves M 1945 France Climber Fontenay-le-Fleury, Yvelines, France Marketing manager Details Other expeditions
Marie Herzog F 1950 France Member Paris, France Graphic artist Details Other expeditions
Jean Francois Manificat M 1950 France Climber Montceau-les-Mines, Saone-et-Loire, France Radiologist Details Other expeditions
Nicole Poutrel F 1945 France Climber Sofitel-de-Val d'Isere, Savoie, France Secretary Details Other expeditions
Raymond Renaud M 1941 France Leader La Salle-les-Alpes, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Vionnet-Fausset M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michel Ziegler M 1934 France Climber Paris, France Village mayor? Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kancha Gurung M - Nepal Woodcutter - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA86304 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:223 (1987) -
MAKA86304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722301/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -