Makalu | 1986 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1986 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Cesare Cesa Bianchi. Summit reached on 13th October 1986. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 899
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA86303
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Cesare Cesa Bianchi
Sponsor Cesa Bianchi Makalu 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-13
Summit Date 1986-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 34
Termination Date 1986-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to strong winds beginning and time running out
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/09,4900m),ABC(17/09,5500m),C1(21/09,6700m),C2(23/09,7400m),C3(05/10,7800m),Biv(14/10,8000m),xxxx(8000m)
Route Notes BC near Barun Pokhari (took son to BC) ABC slightly north of glaciers' junction C1 at beginning of steep section below Makalu La C2 at Makalu La C3 on NW Ridge on small col Messner's C3 High point at North Face. Between making C2 and C3 was bad snowstorm and down to BC. Again in BC after C3 for resting and slow ascent by Cesa Bianchi and 1 Sherpa to C3. On 14th De Benedetti to C2 and next day down by ski from C2 to moraine on his first time in Himalaya. Cesa Bianchi turned down at 8000m after French expedition's Sherpas had taken his cooker for their own use at C3 on 13th and 14th, so too dangerous to go above 8000m without liquids and also had spent bad night of 13 and 14 Oct and furthermore Cesa Bianchi alone above 7800m for first time to be 8000m. Cesa Bianchi to BC on 16th and no further attempt possible. Problems of 13-14 Oct, strong winds beginning and time running out. Vittorio Genna: Stays now in KTM. Rescue helicopter flight to KTM because sickness. Expedition returns 26 Oct; Genna goes home by 15 Oct.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449693
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Cesare Cesa Bianchi M 1950 Italy Leader Milano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maria Christina Moneta F 1948 Italy Climber Longone, Como, Italy - Details Other expeditions
Stefano De Benedetti M 1958 Italy Climber Genoa, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vittorio Genna M 1936 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Employee Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA86303 AAJ Moro, Renato - - 61:225 (1987) -
MAKA86303 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
MAKA86303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722501/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -