Makalu | 1986 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1986 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Reinhold Messner. Summit reached on 26th September 1986. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	900
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Reinhold Messner
Sponsor	Messner Makalu & Lhotse Expeditions
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	24th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	France, Switzerland
Approach	Tumlingtar->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date	1986-08-29
Summit Date	1986-09-26
Summit Time	1130
Summit Days	28
Total Days	30
Termination Date	1986-09-28
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8485
Traverse	False
Ski	True
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	9
Summit Members	3
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	8
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-863-01)
Campsites	BC(29/08,5500m),C1(03/09,6600m),C2(19/09,7400m),C3(20/09,7800m),Smt(26/09)
Route Notes	BC at glaciers' meeting C1 at 1955 French route C2 at Col. Had 2 C2s: 1st one above col in hope to go to top from it; pitched it 10th Sept but could make no summit bid because heavy snowfall and when returned it had been totally destroyed. At time of high climb, 2 [Messner and Kammerlander] reached 8000m on 21 Sept, but too slow and turned back at 8000m and down to BC, passing De Marchi and Ducroz below col and they reached 8400m on French route, not summit itself [on 23 Sept]. Messner, Kammerlander and Mutschlechner started up on 24th Sept from BC to C1; 25th to col's C3; 26th left C3 when sun reached col and followed direct route of Ruedi and Wielicki to top before noon in good condition. Kammerlander skied from about 7500m down to end of glacier at about 5800m. Ministry of Tourism via M Acharya - 27 Sep 86 Messner summits Makalu 11:30 am 26th Started from C3 6:00 am and back by 1:30 pm Kammerlander and Mutschlechner with him 3 in BC today Good health Paoletti - 21 Sep 86 Messner and Kammerlander on at 8000m but turned back by deep snow and returning to BC (probably 22nd) and stay there 2-3 days and then try again. Yesterday C3 7800m. All are well. Too deep snow - too dangerous said Messner. Leaves BC about 30 Sept - 1 Oct after summit. Gabriel wants to go to Lhotse. BC not radio - no new magazines from him. De Marchi - 8 May 88 De Marchi reached 8400m very near summit, then turned back because it was getting dark and difficult ridge above.
Accidents	Frostbitten fingers of doctor
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2449676
Year	1986
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	makalu la-nw ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	17546
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Johann (Hans)
Last Name	Kammerlander
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	True
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	1986-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1130
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	24
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Skied from 7500m down to end of glacier (5800m)
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433732
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	johann (hans) kammerlander
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	17547
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Reinhold
Last Name	Messner
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1944
Calculated Age	42
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Staben bei Naturno, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Farmer
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	1986-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1130
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	24
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2429281
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	reinhold messner
Year of Birth	1944
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	42
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	17548
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	08
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Gottfried (Friedl)
Last Name	Mutschlechner
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Brunico, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	1986-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1130
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	24
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1949-1991) Died 10 May 1991 on Manaslu from lightning
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2431129
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gottfried (friedl) mutschlechner
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	17549
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Fernando
Last Name	Bernasconi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	24
Citizenship	Switzerland
Status	BC Radio Operator
Residence	Dangio, Switzerland
Occupation	Electronics engineer and telecomunications expert
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2435704
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	fernando bernasconi
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	24
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	17550
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Denis
Last Name	Ducroz
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	France
Status	Climber
Residence	Les Praz, Haute-Savoie, France
Occupation	Cameraman & alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8400
Summit Date 1	1986-09-21
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	13
HCN	0
Checksum	2431038
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	denis ducroz
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	17551
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Giuliano
Last Name	De Marchi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Belluno, Italy
Occupation	Physician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8400
Summit Date 1	1986-09-21
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1947-2009) Died on 5 June 2009 in the Dolomites while ski-touring
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	13
HCN	0
Checksum	2430308
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	giuliano de marchi
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	17552
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Giuseppe
Last Name	Enzio
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2433194
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	giuseppe enzio
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	17553
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Renato
Last Name	Moro
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1946
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Film Team Leader
Residence	Milano, Italy
Occupation	Tour operator
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	True
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2429851
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	renato moro
Year of Birth	1946
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Support

Field	Value
ID	17554
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Member ID	09
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Wolfgang
Last Name	Thomaseth
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	38
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Terlano, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide & cameraman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2430447
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	wolfgang thomaseth
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Member

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander	M	1956	Italy	Climber	Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner	M	1944	Italy	Leader	Staben bei Naturno, Bolzano, Italy	Farmer	Details Other expeditions
Gottfried (Friedl) Mutschlechner	M	1949	Italy	Climber	Brunico, Bolzano, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Fernando Bernasconi	M	1962	Switzerland	BC Radio Operator	Dangio, Switzerland	Electronics engineer and telecomunications expert	Details Other expeditions
Denis Ducroz	M	1949	France	Climber	Les Praz, Haute-Savoie, France	Cameraman & alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Giuliano De Marchi	M	1947	Italy	Exp Doctor	Belluno, Italy	Physician	Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Enzio	M	1955	Italy	Climber	Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Renato Moro	M	1946	Italy	Film Team Leader	Milano, Italy	Tour operator	Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Thomaseth	M	1947	Italy	Climber	Terlano, Bolzano, Italy	Alpine guide & cameraman	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	220
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Reference ID	01
Year	1986
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Moro, Renato
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	-
Citation	61:224-225 (1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	3389
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Reference ID	02
Year	1986
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Mutschlechner, Friedl
Title	Einer Geht Immer Voraus
Publisher	Rudolf Rother, Munich
Publication Date	1993
Language	German
Citation	-
Yak 94	M585
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7264
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Reference ID	03
Year	1986
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Kammerlander, Hans
Title	Absteig zum Erfolg
Publisher	Rudolf Rother, Munich
Publication Date	1987
Language	German
Citation	-
Yak 94	K21
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12365
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA86301
Reference ID	04
Year	1986
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722400/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-and-Lhotse-the-Last-of-Messners-8000ers
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
MAKA86301	AAJ	Moro, Renato	-	-	61:224-225 (1987)	-
MAKA86301	-	Mutschlechner, Friedl	Einer Geht Immer Voraus	Rudolf Rother, Munich	-	M585
MAKA86301	-	Kammerlander, Hans	Absteig zum Erfolg	Rudolf Rother, Munich	-	K21
MAKA86301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722400/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-and-Lhotse-the-Last-of-Messners-8000ers	-	-	-