Makalu | 1985 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1985 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Reinhold Messner. Summit reached on 9th February 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 238
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA85402
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1985
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Reinhold Messner
Sponsor Messner Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, France
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-01-16
Summit Date 1986-02-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1986-02-12
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/01,4900m),ABC(25/01,6000m),C1(08/02,7000m),xxx(09/02,7500m)
Route Notes BC at lower classical BC site ABC at normal C1 at base of West Face C1 at normal C4 site High point at plateau. Wind broke tents at ABC and had to retreat. On 3rd Feb went up again (Hans and Messner following Moro and Sherpas who pitched new tent at ABC). On 4th Feb Hans, Reinhold and 4 Sherpas to 7000m but no tents pitched because too strong wind (Hans buried in crevasse one Frenchman from Makalu II autumn 1985) and returned to ABC. On 8th Feb again up to 7000m early on the only really fine day of the climb. Slept there with 2 Sherpas and 2 film-team men. 9th Feb started 2-day push to top with 2 Sherpas carrying and cameraman following part way. At noon Hans and Reinhold reached Makalu 7410m col and 1 hr higher, saw no possibility of going higher still in cloud-obscured route and high wind, so turned back. Were on plateau mostly green ice. Returned to 7000m camp where now begining to snow and descended to ABC on same day. On 11th still snowing and descended to BC where more than half meter of snow. No accidents, etc. 3 cameramen went above ABC Found bodies of Frenchmen Pierre Demolombe and Marcel Margaine on Kangchungtse at 7100m and 7450m.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449446
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander M 1956 Italy Climber Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner M 1944 Italy Leader Staben bei Naturno, Bolzano, Italy Farmer Details Other expeditions
Sabine Stehe F 1962 Austria Member Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Textile designer Details Other expeditions
Renato Moro M 1946 Italy Cameraman Milano, Italy Tour operator Details Other expeditions
Denis Ducroz M 1949 France Cameraman Les Praz, Haute-Savoie, France Cameraman & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Thomaseth M 1947 Italy Cameraman Terlano, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide & cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA85402 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 60:218-219 (1986) -
MAKA85402 MM - - - 110:10-11 (Jul 1986) -
MAKA85402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621803/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Winter-Attempt - - -