Makalu | 1985 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1985 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Sergio Martini. Summit reached on 1st October 1985. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 220
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA85301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Sergio Martini
Sponsor Project 1985 -Italians and Spaniards on Makalu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 22nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Spain
Approach Khanbari->Sedua->Tashigaon
Basecamp Date 1985-08-31
Summit Date 1985-10-01
Summit Time 1800
Summit Days 31
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1985-10-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/08,5400m),C1(04/09,5850m),C2(08/09,6800m),C3(22/09,7400m),C4(30/09,7900m),Smt(01/10)
Route Notes BC at 5400m on ridge on west side of Chago Glacier south of pt 6170m C1 at 5850m on moraine stone just east of "h" in Chago Glacier on Schneider map C2 at 6800m east of (below) Makalu La C3 at 7400m on Makalu Col C4 at 7900m just east of NW Ridge. Route from C1 to C2 kept to east of moraine south of Chago. Sept 9 descended to BC and then much snowfall. On Sept 14 tried to go from C2 to col but got halfway only and then again snowfall and again to BC for 1 week. Sept 22 C3 established. 24 Sept Giambisi and San Sebastian to C3. Then all down to BC because deep fresh snow. Finally up again Sept 28 by all 5 climbers. Slept C2 that night, in C3 on Sept 29, C4 on Sept 30 and Oct 10. Left C4 for top 6:30 am and on summit 6:00 pm. Returned to C4 11:00 pm in new deep snow. Oct 2 at C2 and Oct 3 BC. Left BC Oct 5 and arrived KTM Oct 12.
Accidents Tamayo ill at BC in early Sept, left after 2 days and never took part in climb; most climbers have some frostbite including Man Bahadur Tamang but not disastrous
Achievement 1st Italians to summit
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449315
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Almo Giambisi M 1938 Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergio Martini M 1949 Italy Leader Rovereto, Trento, Italy Physical education teacher Details Other expeditions
Juan Jose (Juanjo) San Sebastian M 1955 Spain Climber Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Bank employee Details Other expeditions
Fabio Stedile M 1961 Italy Climber Aldeno, Trento, Italy Policeman Details Other expeditions
Jose Carlos Tamayo Gegundez M 1958 Spain Climber Sestao, Vizcaya, Spain Engineering technician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA85301 AAJ Martini, Sergio - - 60:218 (1986) -
MAKA85301 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
MAKA85301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621801/Asia-Nepal-Makalu - - -