Makalu | 1985 Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face

A France expedition to Makalu in 1985 via Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face, led by Maurice Barrard. Summit reached on 10th May 1985. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 157
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA85101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Maurice Barrard
Sponsor 8000m by Ski - Expedition to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Arun
Basecamp Date 1985-04-11
Summit Date 1985-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1985-05-12
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8430m due to high wind and frostbitten toes
High Point (m) 8430
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,5400m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(16/04,6800m),Biv(23/04,7400m),C4(30/04,7760m),C5(01/05,8000m),xxx(10/05,8430m)
Route Notes BC at same place as Makalu II team C1 at middle of Chago Glacier east of point 6350m C2 just below Makalu La Biv at Makalu La C5 on ice on Makalu North Face High point on NW Ridge. No fixed camps and no fixed ropes. How many bivouacs don't know: depends on snow, etc. Most difficult parts: just Makalu La and last 300m gully to summit. 3 weeks for acclimitization and then summit push if weather permits. After C2, down to BC then up with bivouacs only above C2. Started up 20 April and reached La on 23 April but turned back with wind; again to BC. 27 April again up. 29 April to Makalu La, 30 April slept at 7700m, 1 May to 8000m where no snow, only rock and ice on N Face. 2 May up only 100m but wind turned them back to C2 and 3 May BC. Then Beaud left climb with 2 frostbitten fingers. 2 Barrards started for top 6 May despite strong winds daily after 27 April at La. 9th May to 8000m biv. 10 May start for top from 8000m at 7:30 am in snowfall but wind blocked by ridge and not problem on N Face. 6:00 pm reached "ridge summit," but not possible to stand up on ridge, so stopped just short of main summit. Back to 8000m at 8:00 pm. 11th May like to reach top but again wind and reached about same altitude so biv 8000m and down to BC 13 May. Route was direct to Makalu La up couloir. Had almost no fixed rope and no fixed camps above 6800m. Last part of climb difficult seracs, icefall and very hard ice. Skiing not possible - no snow, completely day rock and ice. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 May 85 2 bivs above C2 at 7400m and 8000m. 1st attempt 2 May, two Barrards and Beaud reached 8100m and back to C2 because wind and exhaustion and 3 May BC. 2nd attempt 6 May two Barrards left BC. 7 May to C2. 8th May biv 7400m. 9 May biv 8000m. 10 May started at 7:30 am for top and reached 30-35m below top any ridge at 6:00 pm. Wind very very strong, so turned back after 10 minutes and return to biv.
Accidents 2 frostbite cases
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449171
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge-n face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Liliane Barrard F 1948 France Climber Auneau, Eure-et-Loir, France Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Maurice Barrard M 1942 France Leader Francourville, Auneau, France Staff member, French Mountaineering Federation Details Other expeditions
Erich Beaud M 1960 France Climber Paris, France Dentist Details Other expeditions
Georges Narbaud M 1938 France Climber St. Germain-les-Corbeils, Essonne, France Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA85101 AAJ Barrard, Liliane and Maurice - - 60:217-218 (1986) -
MAKA85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621704/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -