Makalu | 1984 SE Buttress (to 6800m)

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1984 via SE Buttress (to 6800m), led by Almo Giambisi. Summit reached on 10th October 1984. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1002
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA84301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Buttress (to 6800m)
Route 2 NW side-N Ridge (to 7900m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Almo Giambisi
Sponsor Italian Mountaineering Expedition 'City of Trento' to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-07
Summit Date 1984-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1984-10-16
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7900m due to bad weather (strong winds)
High Point (m) 7900
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,5000m),C1(12/09,5700m),C2(17/09,6500m),Biv1(06/10,5800m),Biv2(07/10,6700m),Biv3(08/10,7400m),Biv4(09/10,7800m),xxx(10/10,7900m)
Route Notes BC northwest of Barun Pokhari near start of Barun Glacier C1 just north of and below point 5860m C2 on buttress of Czech route Biv on normal route Under Makalu La on Chago Glacier At Makalu La. Team only reached 6800m on SE Buttress Czech route. Strong winds forced retreat on 19 Sept. After weather improved two weeks later, team attempted normal route up to Makalu Col and N Ridge. Martini and De Stefani reached 7900m on 10 Oct when forced down by strong winds. On buttress reached maximum 6800m hoping to put C3 at 7000m, but for 2 weeks could not go up because strong wind. Then decided to change to normal route and brought down all gear from 6800m and up by Martini, De Stefani, Valeruz and Stedile and on 8 Oct 4 Sherpas joined them at Col. On 9th Oct Stedile stayed on col while other 3 on up to 7800m on Kukuczka ridge. There Valeruz had stomach trouble and returned on skis to 6700m while others moved up to 7800m for own summit bid. On 10th Oct Martini and De Stefani tried for top, reached 7900m but wind stopped them and descended to 5400m via 6700m biv when others also left in descent. Then helped bring down Spanish expedition's man - arrived with him on 16th Oct and anyway lot of snowfall. Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84 After reached C2 asked for route change to northwest side and this will be granted if Spaniards have no objection.
Accidents Nardi left early due to altitude sickness; nothing else
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448958
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se buttress (to 6800m)

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michele Dalla Palma M 1957 Italy Climber Predazzo, Trento, Italy Ski & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Almo Giambisi M 1938 Italy Leader Canazei, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurizio Giarolli M 1958 Italy Climber Male, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carlo Claus M 1926 Italy Climber Cles, Trento, Italy Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Sergio Martini M 1949 Italy Climber Rovereto, Trento, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions
Francesco Mich M 1956 Italy Climber Tesero, Trento, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Italo Nardi M 1930 Italy Exp Doctor Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Ermanno Salvaterra M 1955 Italy Climber Pinzolo, Trento, Italy Ski & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Fabio Stedile M 1961 Italy Climber Aldeno, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Antonio (Toni) Valeruz M 1951 Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Ski, hang-gliding & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA84301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:255-256 (1985) -
MAKA84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt - - -