Makalu | 1984 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 1984 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Mari Abrego Santesteban. Summit reached on 16th May 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1050
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA84102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Mari Abrego Santesteban
Sponsor Basque Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 20th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-04-08
Summit Date 1984-05-16
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 38
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1984-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Makalu II (Kangchungtse) (MAK2-841-01) and small peaks near Baruntse
Campsites BC(08/04,5400m),Biv(26/04,6000m),Biv(28/04,6750m),Biv(30/04,7400m),Biv1(11/05,6000m),Biv2(12/05,6600m),Biv3(13/05,7000m),Biv4(14/05,7450m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes BC at moraine on west side of Chago Glacier Biv at start of joining Baruntse Glacier. Erro and Zabaleta left expedition early. Spent several weeks in acclimatization climbing. Then 1st push to summit beginning 26th April and all 4 got to Makalu La where very windy and to 7400m maximum altitude in these 4 days. Then to BC. 2 members left and on 11th May De Pablos and Albrego began new push with bivs in new sites for most and one more bivouac. Arrived at top at 4:00 pm and returned to last biv at 10:00 pm = 23 hrs climbing. Lots of wind and cold throughout climbing period. Passed Basque flag at summit. Technically not difficult. First 800m below Makalu La have to be very careful on this steep section. Going up the altitude was the problem. Climbed several small peaks in area of Baruntse, Baruntse itself to 200m from top and Kangchungtse by 3 members during 1st summit push in late April.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448811
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Angel Maria (Mari) Abrego Santesteban M 1944 Spain Leader Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Mountaineering shop owner Details Other expeditions
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito M 1952 Spain Climber Durango, Vizcaya, Spain Trained as biologist but does variety of odd jobs Details Other expeditions
Xabier Erro Jauregui M 1946 Spain Climber Hondarribia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Martin Zabaleta Larburu M 1949 Spain Climber Oakland, California Tour guide & carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA84102 AAJ Abrego, Mari - - 59:254-255 (1985) -
MAKA84102 MM - - - 99:9 (Sep 1984) -
MAKA84102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525400/Asia-Nepal-Makalu - - -