Makalu | 1982 W Pillar (to 7400m)

A Switzerland expedition to Makalu in 1982 via W Pillar (to 7400m), led by Romolo Nottaris. Summit reached on 17th October 1982. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2064
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA82303
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar (to 7400m)
Route 2 W Face-NW Ridge (to 8200m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Romolo Nottaris
Sponsor Makalu 1982
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-09-08
Summit Date 1982-10-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 39
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1982-10-20
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to snow and wind storms
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Baruntse (BARU-823-01)
Campsites BC(08/09,4900m),ABC(13/09,5300m),C1(15/09,6100m),C2(16/09,6600m),PolishC1(6000m),Biv1(14/10),Biv2(15/10,7700m),Biv3(16/10,7700m),xxx(17/10,8200m)
Route Notes Makalu - BC 8 Sept 4900m Went to West Pillar at first Rausis got sick frequently and decided at end could no longer climb. Made C1 on 15th Sept at 6100m following ABC at 5300m on 13 Sept. Went to 6600m where put C2 on 16 Sept at base of pillar and then returned to BC. Again up and reached 7400m for last acclimatization on 5 Oct by Nottaris and Troillet. Then Rausis said too weak to climb at all. Decided to change from pillar to new route. Went to Polish C1 and discussed route on West Face to right of Kukuzcka route and joined K's route 7100m where had 2nd biv. Went on up his route and 3rd biv 7700m-8200m reached 17 Oct by Nottaris and Troillet. Wind strong: had taken away Poles tent. 18 Oct big snow and wind storm and retreated 1500m down K route - mostly hard ice, 60-65 degrees, some rock. On 19th arrived BC. After three strong north wind and more new snow at BC and on 21 Oct decided to quit. Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82 19th Oct Romolo Nottaris and Jean Troillet abandoned. Had asked to go to other route, but LO refused. Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82 Helicopter requested for member of Baruntse climb. Miss Marie Hiroz slipped 18th Oct when clearing equipment from mountain and injured skull. Doctor says needs hospitalization. Nottaris & Troillet - 22 Aug 82 8 arrived yesterday 1 arrived about 1 week Leave KTM 29th to Tumlingtar Makalu route = W Pillar, same as France and USA. 3 members on this route and 6 on Cho Polu S Ridge, or if not available willing to go to Baruntse. Makalu alpine-style by best climbers; others not so strong climbers (including women). 2 climbs simultaneously, same BC. Arrived BC 15th Sept. BC 4900m, usual site ABC at 5000m - where 2 routes part. Makalu: no further camps, only a tent for bivs. No Sherpas on Makalu and no oxygen or fixed camps. Makalu summit 15-20 Oct Cho Polu summit 10 Oct Hotel on return = KTM Guest House Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82 Swiss Makalu and Baruntse Baruntse summit 2 Oct at 15:30 by Rudolf Homberger alone; left 6100m to go to top. Miss Vreni Kull reached 7200m with Homberger; because too steep she did not go to summit. 3 more members will attempt summit 6th Oct. All OK. Nottaris - 28 Aug 82 Swiss Makalu and Baruntse Expedition 2nd Mountain will be Baruntse not Cho Polu. Will use SE Ridge route. 6 will climb Baruntse only. Other 3 Nottaris, Rausis and Troillet will be only ones on Makalu. Trio may also do same acclimatization climbing on Baruntse or climbing it after Makalu. Troillet flew to Tumlingtar this morning with cargo. Rest of team fly to T'tar tomorrow afternoon.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448232
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar (to 7400m)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Romolo Nottaris M 1946 Switzerland Leader Lugano, Ticino, Switzerland Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Yves Rausis M 1954 Switzerland Climber La Fouly, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Fernand Troillet M 1948 Switzerland Climber Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Patrizia Barbuani F 1958 Switzerland Climber Lugano, Ticino, Switzerland Housewife (homemaker for boyfriend) Details Other expeditions
Marie Hiroz F 1953 Switzerland Climber La Fouly, Valais, Switzerland Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Rudolf (Ruedi) Homberger M 1940 Switzerland Climber Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Vreni Kull F 1955 Switzerland Climber Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Claudio Righeschi M 1946 Switzerland Climber Pregassona, Ticino, Switzerland Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Patrizia Riva F 1959 Italy Climber Rovagnate, Lecco, Italy Housewife (homemaker for boyfriend) Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA82303 AAJ Nottaris, Romolo - - 57:221 (1983) -
MAKA82303 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
MAKA82303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322101/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt-and-Baruntse - - -