Makalu | 1982 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Makalu in 1982 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Kazuo Yuda. Summit reached on 30th September 1982. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2054
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA82302
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuo Yuda
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Makalu Expedition 1982
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 18th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier
Basecamp Date 1982-08-31
Summit Date 1982-09-30
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/08,5160m),C1(02/09,5800m),C2(07/09,6320m),C3(12/09,7050m),C4(20/09,7850m),Smt(30/09)
Route Notes Yuda - 16 Oct 82 Other members arrive KTM today or tomorrow; all Ok. BC 31 Aug 5160m C1 2 Sept 5800m C2 7 Sept 6320m C3 12 Sept 7050m C4 20 Sept 7850m Route to North Ridge more direct than standard route. C1 east and little south of point 6170 on Schneider map at south end of Chago Glacier. C2 due east of "a" in Chago Glacier on 2nd spur/ridge east of glacier. C3 west-southwest from Makalu Col in 3rd from top of small west-east spurs. C4 near 7800m contour line on Makalu's North (really NNW) Ridge. No oxygen used in climbing or sleeping. Yuda - 15 Oct 82 30 Sept at 16:30 hours 3 members to summit: Kazuo Yuda Dr. Yukihiro Michiwaki Makoto Ishibashi North Ridge, not to Makalu La, new variation. Weather bad on summit day, but climbers in good condition. C4 7850m South attack camp; started climb 6:00 am. 2-3 minutes on top because strong wind driving snow; returned C4 7:00 pm 19 Sept same 3 to C3 29 Sept C4 2 others not so strong so did not attempt top. Yuda arrived 14th; others arrive 17th. Yuda slight frostbite toes one foot. Their route direct. Onomura & Yuda - 31 July 82 2 arrived 29 July and 3 will come 1 Aug, leave KTM 11 Aug by air to Tumlingtar Route = North Ridge Do not go to Makalu Col, but climb from narrow north spur of Baruntse Glacier up ridge running south-southwest of Col and thence make horseshoe turn onto North (NNW) Ridge at 7600m BC at 5300m (at "r" in Baruntse Glacier in Schneider map) 3 or 4 camps above BC, probably 3, highest at 7600m Most difficult part of climb is just below 7600m, where get onto North Ridge, very steep: 6.9 rock and ice mixed. Plan put last camp at top of this section, where reach North Ridge. Oxygen medical only 3 Sherpas above BC Arrive BC 1 Sept Summit 10 Oct
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448215
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Makoto Ishibashi M 1952 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Masaru Kubota M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Jewelery Details Other expeditions
Yukihiro Michiwaki M 1957 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Kazuhiro Onomura M 1958 Japan Climber Tsuchiura, Ibaraki, Japan Computer operator Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yuda M 1948 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Crane operator Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA82302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:221 (1983) -
MAKA82302 MM - - - 89:11 (Jan 1983) -
MAKA82302 IWA - - - 95:196 (1983) -
MAKA82302 IWA - - - 95:33-34 (1983) -
MAKA82302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322102/Asia-Nepal-Makalu - - -