Makalu | 1982 W Face-NW Ridge

A Poland expedition to Makalu in 1982 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Adam Bilczewski. Summit reached on 10th October 1982. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2042
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA82301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Adam Bilczewski
Sponsor Polish-Brazilian Himalaya Expedition Makalu 1982
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 19th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Brazil
Approach Hile->Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier
Basecamp Date 1982-08-30
Summit Date 1982-10-10
Summit Time 1245
Summit Days 41
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1982-10-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/08,5400m),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(11/09,6600m),C3(19/09,7100m),C4(07/10,8000m),Smt(10/10)
Route Notes Wojciech Kurtyka - 20 Aug 86 Czok's ridge on Makalu in Oct 1982 was much further to right than Kukuczka's route on West Face in Oct 1981. Czok's was more direct towards summit, Kukuczka's really a spur short-cutting ascent to normal route's C3 to normal route's C3 and thence Kukuczka followed normal route. Czok, Glinski and Janusz Skorek - 31 Oct 82 Polish-Brazilian Makalu BC - 5400m - 30 Aug C1 - 6000m - 26 Sept C2 - 6600m - 11 Sept (all 3 Brazilians reached C2 and no higher) C3 - 7100m - 19 Sept C4 - 8000m - 7 Oct on the NW Ridge Czok alone to top on 10 Oct; had reached C4 with 2 others [Skorek and Machnik] in evening of 7 Oct. [Czok and Skorek] slept using oxygen that night and [all three] 8 Oct tried to go to top but terrible weather wind after one reached 8100m [and Machnik turned back]. Janusz Skorek had frostbitten foot so he and Czok turned back 100m from top. So other 2 went down [to lower camps] while Czok waited for wind to die. Czok slept 2 more nights at C4 in this wait without using oxygen; thus slept 2 nights alone and was entirely alone during days as well. On summit day 10 Oct went to top and then to C3. On top found bamboo without flag, which bamboo was covered by snow. 20m below was bare rock where found old oxygen bottle probably originally yellow but now rusted; tied Polish flag to bottle. No other summit attempt, all tired. Most difficult part was especially above C3 to ridge and also small parts between C2 and C3 and nearly vertical very steep 100m of ice above C2. Szulc was climbing fixed ropes and suddenly man above him realized Szulc not responding. Death probably from altitude effects [or heart attack, Josef Nyka]. Sirdar went to C1 several times; he only one above BC. 4 arrived KTM Friday, others come 3 or 4 Nov. Brazilians need much more experience, were good on snow only; got only to 6600m. Cherrey - 10 Aug 82 Polish-Brazilian Makalu discussed with Japan Makalu possibility of descending via Japanese route. Haim - 5 Aug 82 Haim and his 2 collegues believe they are first Brazilians to climb in all Himalayas from Pumori east. Haim has searched his alpine climb's records since its founding in 1959; definitely none on Argentina Dhaulagiri teams in 1950's since they were army expeditions. Bilczewski & Glinski - 27 July 82 Polish Makalu 3 arrived 16 July Polish 14 to come to Nepal; truck to Biratnagar only 3-4 Brazilians (including 1 Polish-born) 2 Poles late Sept and Kukuczka and 1 Leave KTM 5-10 Aug. Those in KTM go by bus to Dharan; 18-20 days to BC. Route = West Face right side of face, same as Kurtyka's 2 times which reached maximum altitude 7700-8000m, only 70m above rock band (unclimbed route) BC probably same place as over half of expedition members have been over 8000m BC about 5300m 4 camps above BC to bottom of wall at 7800m or so Arrive BC about 1 Sept Summit about 15 Oct Oxygen for climbing in C4; very difficult to use while fixing rope. No Sherpas above BC probably although Ang Kami sirdar may get to lower camps carrying loads Polish-Brazilian Himalaya Expedition Makalu 1982 Stay in red house on return to KTM.
Accidents Szulc probable heart attack while fixing ropes
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448225
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Janusz Baranek M 1937 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Adam Bilczewski M 1934 Poland Leader Gliwice, Poland Ceramic engineer Details Other expeditions
Michel Bogdanowicz M 1947 Brazil Climber Sao Paulo, Brazil Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Bonaventura M 1962 Brazil Climber Sao Paulo, Brazil University student of civil engineering Details Other expeditions
Andrzej (Leszek) Czok M 1948 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Michal Glinski M 1937 Poland Exp Doctor Katowice, Poland Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Max Luiz Haim M 1955 Brazil Climber Sao Paulo, Brazil Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Zygmunt Andrzej (Zyga) Heinrich M 1937 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Kozubek M 1929 Poland Deputy Leader Gliwice, Poland Metallurgical technician Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Krawczyk M 1948 Poland Climber Bytom, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Julian Kubowicz M 1950 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Kuras M 1942 Poland Climber Zywiec, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Machnik M 1953 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Geographer Details Other expeditions
Ignacy Nendza M 1944 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electro-technician Details Other expeditions
Aleksander Pankow M 1936 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Janusz Skorek M 1950 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Smela M 1943 Poland Member Starachowice, Poland Truck driver; does not go above BC Details Other expeditions
Waclaw Sonelski M 1947 Poland Climber Bytom, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Szulc M 1934 Poland Climber Tarnowskie Gory, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Piotr Wojtek M 1958 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Medical student Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA82301 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 57:220-221 (1983) -
MAKA82301 HJ Bilczewski, Dr Adam Makalu West Face - 40:48-51 (1982-1983) -
MAKA82301 - Machnik, Andrzej Na Zachodniej Scianie Makalu Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - M41
MAKA82301 MM - - - 89:11 (Jan 1983) -
MAKA82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322000/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Face - - -
MAKA82301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/40/9/makalu-west-face/ - - -