Makalu | 1982 SE Ridge-E Face

A S Korea expedition to Makalu in 1982 via SE Ridge-E Face, led by Hahm Tak-Young. Summit reached on 20th May 1982. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1686
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA82101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1982
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge-E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Hahm Tak-Young
Sponsor Makalu Expedition Korean Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 17th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-03-30
Summit Date 1982-05-20
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 51
Total Days 59
Termination Date 1982-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,4750m),C1(04/04,5400m),C2(11/04,5900m),C3(15/04,6680m),C4(04/05,7200m),C5(17/05,7400m),C6(19/05,7700m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes Heo on top 20th May with Pasang Norbu and Ang Phurba - found a wooden toy red, black & white turtle in crack in rock near 2-3m summit with ice piton (which must be Kukuczka's toy left last Oct). Heo left in place of toy a carabinier and 4-leaf clover from Korea. Route = Through SE Ridge from S Col C3. When reached C5, changed to E Face. 1st climbed to get this face to top - more direct route - E Face to be known as Korean face. C4 to C5 almost 2 weeks because strong winds with some snow and members resting in BC for attack. 3 summiters made C5 and C6 and then to summit. 2nd summit assault scheduled but suddenly weather very bad with storm and wind - not enough food in camps because stayed so long in KTM and half of Sherpas sick. 20th May left C6 4:30 am reached top 2:00 pm. 40 minutes on top in clouds and wind. Returned to C6 at 6:30 pm. Found toy when going to top, only 2-3m below top, which is too pointed for 3 members to stand. 4 members left BC 23 May and arrived KTM 29th May; others all in BC on 23rd, not going up to clear more gear & left BC 28th May and arrived KTM 15-16 June. Heo proud to be 1st Korean on Makalu summit - happy when reached top. Shim & Hahn - 27 Feb 82 route = SE Ridge complete from beginning - same as Japanese spring 70 BC at normal route 4700m Then divide into 2 parties - A route is new = Korean route join again at C3 near South Col at 6600m Above C4 is Black Gendarme very difficult section - from here across gendarme to C5. Start climb about 5 April and 2-3 summit attacks 15-20 May. Baggage now in CCU port - arrives KTM 9-10 March. Leave KTM about 12-13 March bus to Dharan farther and then walk. Arrive BC 30 March 9 Sherpas above BC including sirdar and 5 high altitude porters to C3 = 14 Sherpas above Base 35 oxygen bottles for summit attempt, medical use and same sleeping. Want to climb without oxygen if possible. All members now in KTM except surgeon, who arrives 3 March: 3 climbers, 3 Drs and 2 leadership.
Accidents No frostbite and no accidents
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448082
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge-e face

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tak-Young Hahm M 1938 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Official in Ministry of Communications Details Other expeditions
Jeong-Sik Heo M 1955 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Supermarket manager Details Other expeditions
Wook Heo M 1953 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Young-Ho Heo M 1954 S Korea Climber Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk, S Korea Clerk in cement company Details Other expeditions
Eun-Won Lee M 1956 S Korea Cameraman Seoul, S Korea Cameraman (Korean Broadcasting System) Details Other expeditions
Chan-Young Lee M 1954 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Clerk in import company Details Other expeditions
Byung-Kook Min M 1955 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Office clerk Details Other expeditions
Sang-Ki Min M 1951 S Korea Cameraman Seoul, S Korea Cameraman (Korean Broadcasting System) Details Other expeditions
Sun-Woo Nam M 1955 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Unemployed; recent university graduate Details Other expeditions
Kum-Hoo Rhee M 1935 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Psychiatrist Details Other expeditions
Ik-Hwan Seong M 1951 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Geologist Details Other expeditions
Hyoung-Ki Shin M 1955 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Military officer (teaches Korean literature at Air Force Acad) Details Other expeditions
Seung-Mo Shin M 1947 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Industrial designer Details Other expeditions
Byung-Ho Song M 1955 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Trading company clerk Details Other expeditions
Chin-Soo Yang M 1950 S Korea Journalist Seoul, S Korea Reporter for Korean Broadcasting Syatem Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ki-Joo Rhee M 1938 S Korea Exp Doctor Seoul, S Korea Surgeon Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA82101 AAJ Seung Mo Shin - - 57:219-220 (1983) -
MAKA82101 MM - - - 86:12 (Jul 1982) -
MAKA82101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198321903/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Southeast-Ridge-to-East-Face - - -