Makalu | 1981 Makalu La-NW Ridge
A Austria expedition to Makalu in 1981 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Arthur Haid. Summit reached on 23rd September 1981. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1798 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA81302 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Austria |
| Leaders | Arthur Haid |
| Sponsor | Tirolean Himalayan Expedition 1981 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dharan->Shipton Pass->Makalu BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-09-10 |
| Summit Date | 1981-09-23 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 13 |
| Total Days | 40 |
| Termination Date | 1981-10-20 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7000m due to avalanches |
| High Point (m) | 7000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(10/09,5400m),C1(16/09,6150m),C2(23/09,7000m),xxx(23/09,7000m) |
| Route Notes | Haid - 28 Oct 81 5440m BC - 10 Sept 6150m C1 - 15 Sept 7000m C2 - 23 Sept Big snowstorm from 26th nights. 27th C2 members descended. 29th 2nd snowfall and big wind (BC 30 cm) so from C1 to BC. 2 Oct tried to go from C1 to C2, but big avalanche hit 4 members, but not hurt. 8 Oct abandoned after 7 Oct 1 member and 3 Sherpas went to see C2; 2 tents destroyed and too dangerous for avalanche and very strong winds, so never above C2. No accidents, frostbite illness Route was northwest side (it is not a ridge) Graebenweger - 26 Oct 81 Expedition abandoned 8 Oct decided to stop; windy so late. Some supplies lost, but not so bad. Lot of avalanches in big storm. 4 people in snow up to rocks. After could get to C2 at about 7000m; this highest point reached about 22 Sept C3 would have been at Col at 7400m, but never got to Col at all. No injuries of frostbite Left BC 20 Oct 4 arrived 24 Oct, others after few days and those here now wait Graebenweger, Rabensteiner, Bluemel and Schoepf arrived KTM on 24 Oct; are at Trekkers Lodge. Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81 Austrian Makalu expedition abandoned 8 Oct after reaching 7000m which was C2 because of high winds since 29 Sept and frequent avalanches on route. Left BC 20 Oct. All well. Haid & Ljubanovic - 17 Aug 81 Tirolean Himalaya Expedition 1981 All arrived 14 Aug; not all baggage has arrived but hope to leave 22 or 23 Aug by road to Dharan; 20 days from KTM to BC. Route = northwest side, French 1955 standard route BC at 5300m 4 camps above BC C4 at about 8000m, higher the better 6 Sherpas above BC Have oxygen for climbing, but some want to try without Arrive BC about 8-10 Sept Summit late Oct, 4-6 weeks climbing |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447842 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dieter Bluemel | M | 1956 | Austria | Climber | Imst, Tirol, Austria | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Alfred Fluer | M | 1956 | Austria | Climber | Imst, Tirol, Austria | University student (geography and sports) | Details Other expeditions |
| Hannes Graebenweger | M | 1957 | Austria | Climber | Imst, Tirol, Austria | University student (home construction) | Details Other expeditions |
| Arthur Haid | M | 1937 | Austria | Leader | Imst, Tirol, Austria | Alpine guide & post bus driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Klaus Keller | M | 1956 | Austria | Climber | Imst, Tirol, Austria | Medical student | Details Other expeditions |
| Theodor Ljubanovic | M | 1941 | Austria | Exp Doctor | Zams, Tirol, Austria | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Rabensteiner | M | 1957 | Austria | Climber | Imst, Tirol, Austria | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Johann Schoepf | M | 1955 | Austria | Climbing Leader | Schoenwies, Tirol, Austria | Railway engine driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Walter Venier | M | 1944 | Austria | Climber | Schoenwies, Tirol, Austria | Cook | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA81302 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 56:207 (1982) | - |
| MAKA81302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220702/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt | - | - | - |