Makalu | 1981 NW side (acclim to 8000m)

A Poland expedition to Makalu in 1981 via NW side (acclim to 8000m), led by Voytek Kurtyka. Summit reached on 15th October 1981. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1793
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA81301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW side (acclim to 8000m)
Route 2 W Face (to 7900m)
Route 3 W Face-N Ridge
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Voytek Kurtyka
Sponsor East-West Precipice Fellowship Expedition to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 True
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 16th
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
Basecamp Date 1981-09-01
Summit Date 1981-10-15
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 44
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1981-10-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites LowBC(01/09,4900m),BC(04/09,5300m),C1(11/09,6200m),xxx(26/09,8000m); Biv1(6700m),Biv2(7200m),Biv3(7600m),Biv4(7800m),xxx; Biv1(12/10,7000m),Biv2(13/10,7500m),Biv3(14/10,8000m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes Sharma, Tourism - 31 Jan 81 HMG "disregards" claim of Kukuczka solo ascent of Makalu last Oct because Austrian Makalu expedition and their LO (who had taken over as Poles LO) said they did not believe his claim. They gave no reasons, but Austrians denied that Kukuczka had used their tent as his account said he did. Sharma has personally asked Kurtyka to provide proof of solo ascent, and if this is provided, HMG may reverse its position. HMG might also reverse position if this winter's French soloist Ghirardini finds item left on summit by Kukuczka (a Polish doll). HMG has not disregarded Japanese Dhaulagiri I soloist's claim of last spring because in his case, his LO did believe his account, but HMG does not support his claim either until he provides proof. This is first time HMG has not acknowledged a claim of ascent as far as Sharma knows; this "disregard" letter to Kurtyka "was cooked" and Sharma's request to Kurtyka for proof is "more official." HMG's non-acknowledgement is not to be used as a separate story but only in connection with current for Makalu solo attempt. Kurtyka - 6 Nov 81 Arrived 26 Sept all 3 reached 8000m in acclimatization climb via northwest side and North Ridge. Then down to BC and after 3 days went to West Face. 4 bivs from 6000m at base of face, to 6700m, 7200m, 7600m, 7800m. 5th day after 4th biv started to descend and reached 7200m and next day in BC. Climbed one pitch on overhang. Realized would have to stay at 8000m 4 nights and for this we were not prepared; gas at most for only 2 bivs including descent; also psychologically not prepared. Maybe 4 men in teams taking turns and with fixed ropes on over hang can be done, but we fed up with face and will not attempt soon. Returned to BC 9 Oct and Alex left; quite windy. Kurtyka could not go back because of frostbite. 12 Oct Kukuczka left BC. Extremely alone (no one on mountain); was a tent left at Makalu Col as only help of any kind, but tent not expected to have still been there. 12 Oct from BC 5400m to 7000m using Roger Baxter-Jones route 13 Oct from 7000m to 7500m North Ridge which thinks only climbers - this not Baxter-Jones route (reached ridge at 7500m) 14 Oct from 7500m to 8000m North Ridge 15 Oct 8000m to summit and back to 8000m at 9:00 pm (left Polish toy on summit and found 3 French pegs) 16 Oct arrived BC very tired, more tired than after Everest but not extreme exhaustion or frostbite. Sharma, Tourism Jerzy Kukuczka, 1948, Katowice electronics Oct 11 abandoned by announcement of MacIntyre Decided attempt another line a left side of West Face. Left BC solo 12 Oct. Kurtyka had slight frostbite and not able to join Kukuczka in this attempt. Kukuczka climbed to summit on 15 Oct after making variation in route. On face 7000m and to summit along a ridge on the northwest also not climbed before. Kurtyka now in KTM and so is Kukuczka. Not to attribute to Ministry - according to report by Kurtyka. Alex MacIntyre - 19 Oct 81 About 4 Oct, 3 members left BC to attempt West Face having completed acclimatization which was 2 trips up normal route including biv at 8000m on 2nd trip, so very very fit. On about 5-8 Oct climbed to 7900m on face: 3 ice fields and 3 rock bands to foot of final rock band/head wall. Found way out to right to West Pillar, not taking head wall direct but even going out to right going to be very difficult climb. Made attempt at easiest line, ice gully, when 40m took 6 hours (alpine grade 6). Would have then led to very difficult pitch but hadn't gas, food and time left. Would have required 4 bivouacs above 8000m and to carry that gear and bivouac and cross and descend going to be exhausting so next down, front pointing most of the way. Really felt we tried hard and nobody disappointed. Learned a hell of a lot about how to tackle these things: would do it with six people in teams of 2 men each; 3 people not enough. Top of 3rd icefield to bottom of head wall is overhang. Nearly got wiped out on 2nd acclimatization trip when huge wind slab came down; luckily were above it. 2 Polish came out to KTM with Austrians who have abandoned attempt because of avalanche which destroyed a camp and ripped out a rope. Austrians and 2 Polish leave BC about 20th Oct. Don't think they reached Col. Highest point on face route was about 7900m on 9 Oct by all 3 really (Alex 40m above others). Reached BC on 11th at 5300m at junction of glaciers. Left BC with everything on own backs with no Sherpa to help. No oxygen. No frostbite, no accident except Alex got hit by vertical ice which injured head. Avalanche conditions were so bad they were prepared to rope down Front Pillar. Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 81 Polish-British Makalu Lower BC established 1 Sept at 4900m after 11 days march from Tumlingtar. Extremely wet weather and porter's strikes. Hope to be ABC in next four days after 1 Sept. East-West Precipice Fellowship Expedition to Makalu - 16 Aug 81 Will put tent at Col for descent. Will go northwest side higher perhaps to 8000m 3-4 weeks of this acclimatization; then to face. BC 5400m. Probably establish cache at hanging glacier at about 6500m, then to climb face in 5 or 6 days alpine-style. Speed on face depends on rock barrier 500m high at 7700-8200m. Will go right of barrier to West Pillar and then back to face. Wojciech Kurtyka - 20 Aug 86 Kukuczka's successful route on Makalu in Oct 1981 was much further to the left than ridge climbed in Oct 1982 by Czok. Czok's route was more direct towards summit, Kukuczka's really via a spur short cutting ascent to normal routes C3 and thence he followed normal route. Hope 2 Poles by air to Tumlingtar 17 Aug and Alex on Friday 21st. Arrive BC about 1 Sept. Face climb 1st days of Oct. No Sherpas above BC; only a cook at BC. No oxygen. Letter from Arthur Haid - 24 Jan 1982 As for the doubts to Mr. Kukuczka regarding the solo climb of Makalu I should like to advice that their are no doubts at all neither on my part nor on the part of our expeditions members that Mr. Kukuczka has been on the peak of Makalu 8481m. Mr. Voytek Kurtyka spoke to as on the 12th of Oct 1981 whether we should mind if his friend Kukuczka would eventually try to go on our route to the peak of the Makalu. Our expedition team did not mind at all. Sardar Ang Jangbu Sherpa was not present, only our liaison officer Mr. Karki did not quite agree with the plan of the Poles. I personally believe that these doubts have arisen in the Ministry of Tourism. Mr. Kukuczka left the basecamp on the 12th of Oct 1981 about no time. On the 13th October 1981 we saw him vanishing on the shoulder of Makalu Col. On Oct 14 and 15 Kukuczka stayed outside of our view. According to this statement he reached the peak on a route not yet gone so far. On the 16th of October 1981 I have been near camp I with Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje and we saw Mr. Kukuczka coming down from Makalu Col in direct descent. He looked exhausted and descended the same day to the base camp. On the 18th October 1981 we have been invited by the Poles in the base camp for a little peak-festival. As far as I am concerned as the expedition leader there is for me no doubt whatever that Mr. Kukuczka has reached the peak of the Makalu. It seems to me, that he is not the type of man who would say something that is not true. The members of the Polish expedition have made efforts really unique in the history mountaineering in their attempt to climb flank of Makalu.
Accidents Alex hit by vertical ice which injued head; Kurtyka had slight frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447864
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw side (acclim to 8000m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jerzy Kukuczka M 1948 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Wojciech (Voytek) Kurtyka M 1947 Poland Leader Krakow, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Alex) MacIntyre M 1954 UK Climber Manchester, England Mountaineering equipment technical advisor Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA81301 AAJ MacIntyre, Alex - - 56:207 (1982) -
MAKA81301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy My Vertical World Mountaineers, Seattle - K354
MAKA81301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy Swiat Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - -
MAKA81301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Na Szczytach Swiata Krajowa Agencia Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - K354
MAKA81301 MM - - - 83:10 (Jan 1982) -
MAKA81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220701/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-West-Face-Attempts-Pre-and-Postmonsoon-Makalu-II-Kanghungtse-and-Makalu-solo - - -