Makalu | 1981 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Austria expedition to Makalu in 1981 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Hanns Schell. Summit reached on 25th April 1981. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1826
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA81102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Hanns Schell
Sponsor Austrian Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-04-04
Summit Date 1981-04-25
Summit Time 1715
Summit Days 21
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,5300m),C1(09/04,6300m),C2(15/04,7000m),C3(22/04,7500m),C4(24/04,7800m),Smt(25/04)
Route Notes Schell, Schauer and Bachler - 30 May 81 BC - 5300m - 4 April C1 - 6300m - 9 April C2 - 7000m - 15 April C3 - 7500m - 22 April C4 - 7800m - 24 April Summit by Schauer 25 April. After 15 April too much snow and wind; then one push to C3 and up. Bachler arrived BC 14 April. Schauer to C3 with Sherpas and back on 22nd April to C2. 23 April again Schauer and Sherpas to C3 and Sherpas down while Schauer alone. 24 May in beautiful weather he made C4 and 25 May to top: started 6:30 am in good weather but high clouds in mid-day: reached top 17:15 hrs (had determined would stop ascent by 17:00 hrs). Biv at 8100m after slipping 100m and losing ice axe and hammer and managed to find couloir at 19:30-20:00 hrs. Entire climb by Schauer without any oxygen. In fall thought really the end but managed stop himself with points of crampons, tumbling head over heels at 8200m down to 8100m at 2 pm. 26 April Schauer to C4, slept 2 hours and lot of drinking and then to C1; other 3 and 3 Sherpas tried for summit [afterwards]. 1 May left BC to C1 2 May in C2 3 May in C2 in storm 4 May to C3 5 May to C4 6 May - weather bad and not feeling strong and descended and rested 12 May - 3 members and 2 Sherpas from BC to C1 13 May - to C2 14 May - to C3 15 May - to C4 and Bachler and Hilmar [Sturm] made fixed rope to 8000m 16 May - in C4 in bad weather 17 May - Bachler alone up without oxygen and reached 50m below summit left Col 8:00 am; had only thin gloves and weather changed for worse so down to C4 at 3:00 pm; others members to C2 and Sherpas to C3 with one ill and needed escort (he used oxygen) 18 May - all down, hoped to go up again alpine-style but weather always bad 20 May - gave up Route = NW Face; not real face = northwest side, same as 1978 spring Warth expedition and 1955 French; also same as Scott 1980 autumn. No accidents or frostbite Climbed no other peaks Mr Herwig Derstrenscheg of Graz - 6 May 81 Robert Schauer made an unaccompanied ascent of Makalu on 25 April. Others hope to go to top early May. Postcard dated - 23 April 81 BC - 5400m C1 - 6300m Makulu La 7400m reached by Schauer 22 April 81 alone Schell - 16 March 81 Austrian Makalu Expedition 1 member arrived end of March Route = NW Face (French route) 15 days from Tumlingtar to BC so reach BC end March/early April BC - 5400m 4 camps above BC C1 - 6300m C2 - 7000m C3 - 7400m C4 - 7800-8000m 3 Sherpas above BC Oxygen for some members Summit early-middle May Leave KTM 20 March to Dharan by road; thence walk to BC via Tumlingtar (arrive T'tar about 25/26 March).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447691
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Georg Bachler M 1953 Austria Climber Abtenau, Salzburg, Austria Sales promotion manager in ski-equipment manufacturing Co. Details Other expeditions
Hans Robert Schauer M 1953 Austria Deputy Leader Graz, Styria, Austria Medical student Details Other expeditions
Hanns Schell M 1938 Austria Leader Graz, Styria, Austria Merchant Details Other expeditions
Hilmar Sturm M 1939 Austria Climber Graz, Styria, Austria Blacksmith Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA81102 AAJ Schauer, Robert - - 56:205-207 (1982) -
MAKA81102 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
MAKA81102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Solo-and-Without-Oxygen - - -