Makalu | 1980 SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Makalu in 1980 via SE Ridge, led by Renato Casarotto. Summit reached on 15th January 1981. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1853
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA80401
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1980
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Renato Casarotto
Sponsor International Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-12-10
Summit Date 1981-01-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 36
Total Days 44
Termination Date 1981-01-23
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7350m due to bad weather (cold, wind, snow)
High Point (m) 7350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 4000
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-804-01)
Campsites BC(10/12,4950m),C1(13/12,5880m),C2(21/12,6320m),C3(30/12,6800m),xxx(15/01,7350m)
Route Notes Nottaris & Senaldi - 2 Feb 81 Now in KTM (arrived yesterday): Nottaris, Dr. Senaldi, Zimmermann Reached 15 Jan to 7220m, little below C4 site. 7350m by Nottaris alone Not higher: bad weather, very cold, snow, wind -48 degrees at 7200m. Leader had altitude problem, so only 3 climbers; leader in BC only. Impossible for parties to bring supplies above BC because deep snow. Ministry of Tourism BC to C3 correct. Left BC 23 Jan. Now trip helicopter to BC see if anyone there and found left at 6700m but sticks, but no tracks above that. No fixed rope and no pitons, nothing above that. Italians put 4000m fixed rope. Wind so strong on ridge: impossible to move without fixed rope. Route exactly same as British SE Ridge 1980. All 7 Italians tents broken by very strong wind, one completely destroyed. Wind and snow worse than expected. Poles said not so much snow. Wind 200 km often and change direction from south to north. LO's report to Tourism, published 26 Jan 81 C2 21 Dec 6320m C3 30 Dec 6800m by Mario Curnis, Claude Zimmerman, Ang Pasang on SE Ridge. Weather: good, wind strong (too much) Temperature: -15 degrees to 8 degrees Centrigrade Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 5 Jan 81 C1 5880m 13 Dec -15 degrees C = minimum temperature +12 degrees C = maximum temperature wind very strong Nottaris - 15 Nov 80 International Expedition Makalu Route = SE Ridge , Japanese 1970 & Spring 1976 (Britain 1980) In winter very difficult with wind and cold; if not much wind use Britain 1980 route, i.e., ridge all the way. If wind really bad, joins ridge at 6800m from Barun Pokhari via glacier to ridge (along altitude markings on Schneider map of 5600m, 5800m, 6000m, 6200m, etc). 4 alpinists, 1 Dr and 1 BC mgr. All now in KTM. Go to Dharan or Tumlingtar 22 Nov. BC to be established about 10-11 at 4900m southwest of Barun Pokhari. 3 camps above BC C3 7500m C3 -> summit alpine style Wind is big problem, technically not so difficult; difficulties is wind and cold. Oxygen use: have 25 bottles, if necessary use it: if impossible because of wind will use it 4 Sherpas above BC Summit 1-10 Jan; success depends on weather. Cassaroto amongst 10 best climbers in world; all very strong.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447590
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Renato Casarotto M 1948 Italy Leader Vicenza, Italy Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Mario Curnis M 1936 Italy Climber Nembro, Bergamo, Italy Mason Details Other expeditions
Romolo Nottaris M 1946 Switzerland Climber Lugano, Ticino, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Senaldi M 1951 Italy Exp Doctor Arcegno, Ticino, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Coretta Traverso-Casarotto F 1951 Italy BC Manager Vicenza, Italy Housewife Details Other expeditions
Claude Zimmermann M 1952 Switzerland Climber Dalpe, Ticino, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA80401 AAJ Casarotto, Renato - - 56:205 (1982) -
MAKA80401 - Nottaris, Romolo Fascino dell'Himalaya, Makalu and Gasherbrum Arti Grafiche Bernasconi, Agno, Switzerland - N162
MAKA80401 MM - - - 79:14 (May 1981) -
MAKA80401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220502/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Winter-Attempt - - -