Makalu | 1980 W Pillar (Ridge)

A USA expedition to Makalu in 1980 via W Pillar (Ridge), led by John Roskelley. Summit reached on 15th May 1980. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1870
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA80101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Pillar (Ridge)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders John Roskelley
Sponsor American Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 14th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-03-28
Summit Date 1980-05-15
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 48
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1980-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 3050
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/03,5200m),C1(02/04,5830m),C2(10/04,6550m),C3(24/04,7380m),C4(14/04,7770m),Smt(15/05)
Route Notes Roskelley - 31 May 80 Reached C3 12 May and set. Real technical difficult route above C4. French did fantastic job in their climb with straight granite walls high up. Americans would not have been able to make another summit attempt; weather not good and they were tired. Ministry's times on 15 May correct. Roskelley took brief maps on descent and got to C4 at 8:30 pm (Jim and Chris there at 7:30 pm); continued on down to C4 rather than biv cause no strength to survive biv. No accidents or frostbite. 10,000 feet fixed ropes; no oxygen and no Sherpas above BC. "It went so smoothly. I can't believe it." Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 23 May 80 Summit on 15 May 3:30 pm by one member (Roskelley) whose name not disclosed because collective and credit should not go to one man team effort. Stayed on top 15 mins, took photos and collected summit rocks. Started from C4 at 2:00 am and returned to C4 8:30 pm. Others not trying for summit. arrive KTM 30 May. Summiter's health good. 2 other members accompanied him from C4 try could go to only 1500 ft below summit and then became tired. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80 LO letter dated 25 April says C3 established at 7772m (25,500 ft) on 24 April by all members; weather very good that day. Roskelley - 4 March 80 American Makalu Expedition Route = 1971 French West Pillar without oxygen and Sherpas and only 4 climbers; safe but technically difficult, some verticals pitches of class 6. Most difficult between C5 and C6 between 24,000 to 26,000 ft, but whole ridge extremely steep - class 6 climbing at high altitude. BC sirdar and cook Ang Nima (on Gaurishankar with Americans). Other 2 members are now in Delhi with baggage. Hope ot leave KTM in a week and arrive BC 1st April. BC 17,000 feet in usual place; C1 will be at base of pillar at 21,000 feet. 30-45 days to reach summit depending on weather. Letter from John Roskelley - May 7, 1980 Plan summit attempt 12 or 13th the Buttress was difficult, but overcome in 3 days to French Camp 6 at 25,495 ft. We have dropped to get our heads together and renew our physical strength. We will ascend tomorrow to C2 then to C3 then to establish a C4, drop to C3 then move up. Hopefully the weather will hold for our summit attempt. If not we will wait. Letter from John Roskelley - April 26, 1980 This has been my first chance to keep you informed as to our progress in some time. We have fixed ropes to 24,000 ft (French C4), but have carried loads only twice to that point. High winds have kept us pinned to the ridge at 21,500 ft and we have now stocked that camp fully. We expect the buttress to be technically difficult, but with a relaxation of the winds it should go quickly. Our camps are differently designated BC = French Camp 1; Camp 1 = French Camp 2, etc. Hopefully we will have only one camp above the buttress. All of us are healthy and acclimatizing well. No problems encountered up to 24,000 ft we could not handle easily. Letter from Roskelley - March 30, 1980 We have reached and supplied our prospective base at the foot of the West Ridge, 17,100 ft. We are using the Japanese Base as opposed to the French Camp 1 situated several hundred feet above us. At present we are occupying the commonly used Makalu Base below the South Face, 16,000 ft. We trekked for 17 days from Dharan to Makalu without any problems due to our excellent Sherpas. The trek over Shipton Col was the most difficult stage and we encountered deep snow until the Barun Khola. Base was snow free until last night when a pretty serious storm has come in dumping 3 ft of snow with high winds. All of us are in good health and looking forwards to climbing.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447345
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w pillar (ridge)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christopher M. (Kris) Kopczynski M 1948 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Building contractor Details Other expeditions
Kim A. Momb M 1956 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Carpenter Details Other expeditions
John Fenton Charles Roskelley M 1948 USA Leader Spokane, Washington Photojournalist Details Other expeditions
James H. (Jim) States M 1945 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Physician (adolescent medicine) Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar/Cook - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA80101 HJ Roskelley, John Makalu West Pillar - 37:22-24 (1979-80) -
MAKA80101 AAJ Roskelley, John Four Against Makalu - 55:36-44 (1981) -
MAKA80101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
MAKA80101 CLMB Roskelley, John Four Against Makalu - Mar-Apr 1981 -
MAKA80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198103600/Four-Against-Makalu - - -
MAKA80101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/7/makalu-west-pillar/ - - -