Makalu | 1975 S Face

A Yugoslavia expedition to Makalu in 1975 via S Face, led by Ales Kunaver. Summit reached on 6th October 1975. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2077
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA75301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1975
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Ales Kunaver
Sponsor Yugoslav Himalayan Expedition to Makalu 1975
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th-9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Shipton La-Barun Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1975-09-05
Summit Date 1975-10-06
Summit Time 1640
Summit Days 31
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 21
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/09,4950m),C1(07/09,5850m),C2(09/09,6300m),Biv(14/09,6600m),C3(16/09,7000m),C4(22/09,7500m),C5(04/10,8050m),Smt(06,08,10-11/10)
Route Notes Hamal, Ministry of Tourism - 9 Oct 75 From LO (Yogendra Thapa): 4th Oct C5 established 6th Oct 8 am started ascent - 4:40 pm reached top: Belak & Manfreda (former used oxygen, latter did not). Summiters stayed there 5 minutes. 2nd group preparing for ascent. Kunaver - Oct 8 2nd assault team: Azman, Zaplotnik climbed mountain Makalu over South Face. Two more assault teams waiting their chance if weather fair. Falling ice caused serious problems on face. Kunaver - Oct 6 30 days after BC established, at 12:40 pm 1st ascent team of 4 reached top of South Face and at 16:40 reached top of mountain - started from C5. Belak used oxygen all but 100m and Manfreda not at all. Other teams to reach top in 2-days intervals. Kunaver - 19 Aug 75 All memebers probably started today from Dharan; at least majority of goods and members surely left today. LO = Subinspector Yogendra Thapa 5th day Arikan Gaur 10th day Sedua 16th day BC BC - 4950m C1 - 5900m C2 - 6200-6250m Bivouac - about 6600m (prepare camp at first) C3 - about 7000m C4 - 7400-7500m C5 - about 8000m (maybe little less) C6 - pt 75-80 or 85-90 = about 8200m or 8250m March in should take 16 days. Immediately start route up to C2 or even in bad weather using 20 local men and 11 Sherpas. 4 planned summit attacks with 1st opportunity after 21 days = middle Oct for 1st optimistic opportunity. Return to KTM from Tumlingtar (via scheduled flight probably) except 3 to Biratnagar with baggage. Letter from Ales Kunaver - 6 Oct 75 Snowfall on 26th and 27th gave us at present of 1m snow in the Base and seriously damaged C3 and C4. At that moment up in the face was already all technical material for the final phase. To that moment we had an average of 3 days to establish a new high altitude camp. After snow stop we pulled down all tired men and so at once "plowed" the new snow. We reformed in 4 groups putting the tired ones to the tail. First group go a 10 men carry support with the aim to renew C3 and C4 to pitch C5 in 2 days and in further 2 days fix the ropes to the edge of face and to try the top. This was realized today without the delay. The top climbers Belak Stane with oxygen up to last 100m (oxygen ran out) and Marjan Manfreda without oxygen reached the edsge of the face at the point 88 (picture) at 12 and after the top of Makalu at 16. Reported quick return after some snaps due to late afternoon. Had constant radio contact and returned to C5 at the point 69 at 22:15 hours. Reported no problems and high spirits. You can imagine our feelings. In the face now three more attack teams in C4, C3 and Bivouac. The situation at the moment permits to run the machine ahead because all members in very good condition and the route equipped and permits quick return in emergency. If the weather will permit fulfilment of the maximum program the activites on the mountain will stop on Oct 14th and return march started on 16th. Letter from Ales Kunaver - 8 Sept 75 We arrived here on 59 porters on 6 Sept morning. Had one day stop in the junge above Sedua, due to heavy raining. Other conditions normal; water, mud, leaches, etc. On 6 Sept had first transport to 5850-5900m. Up today 50 porter loads, 13 Sherpa loads and 27 members loads in C1 and camp fixed and in action on 7th. Today 10 men sleeping in C1 and tomorrow fixing C2 in a snow hole at 6250m. Have one light pneumonia and a bad chronical bronchitis (sardar) brought with to the trip. He goes tomorrow to Sedua to recover and if not better back to KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445657
Year 1975
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Janez (Janko) Azman M 1945 Yugoslavia Climber Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Engineering designer of equipment for rehabillitating people Details Other expeditions
Zoran Beslin M 1951 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia University chemistry student Details Other expeditions
Danilo Cedilnik M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Art teacher Details Other expeditions
Janez Dovzan M 1945 Yugoslavia Climber Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Boris Erjavec M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Viktor (Viki) Groselj M 1952 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Stanko Jamnik M 1938 Yugoslavia Climber Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanko (Stane) Klemenc M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Domzale, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Ivan (Ivc) Kotnik M 1951 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mining student Details Other expeditions
Ales Kunaver M 1935 Yugoslavia Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Commercial director of a factory Details Other expeditions
Janez Loncar M 1948 Yugoslavia Climber Trzic, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Textiles technician Details Other expeditions
Marjan Manfreda M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Bled, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Maintenance electrician on railways Details Other expeditions
Damjan Mesko M 1938 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Bojan Pollak M 1943 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Machine engineer Details Other expeditions
Radovan (Rado) Riedl M 1938 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Television cameraman Details Other expeditions
Milan Rebula M 1952 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student Details Other expeditions
Roman Robas M 1942 Yugoslavia Climber Medvode, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Joze Rozic M 1951 Yugoslavia Climber Ratece, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Maintenance worker in iron works Details Other expeditions
Dusan Srecnik M 1949 Yugoslavia Climber Trzic, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Driver of construction crane Details Other expeditions
Jernej (Nejc) Zaplotnik M 1952 Yugoslavia Climber Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Clerk Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA75301 AAJ Kunaver, Ales - - 50:512-513 (1976) -
MAKA75301 MM - - - 46:12 (Nov 1975) -
MAKA75301 MM Kunaver, Ales Makalu - South Face Climbed - 48:32-35 (Mar 1976) -
MAKA75301 - Kunaver, Ales & Andlovic, Joze Na Vrh Svijeta Globus, Zagreb - K367
MAKA75301 - Groselj, Viki Do Prvih Zvezd Zalozba, Maribor, Slovenia - G381
MAKA75301 - Kunaver, Ales & Kunaver, Dusica Maklu Private, Ljubljana - -
MAKA75301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651203/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-South-Face - - -