Makalu | 1972 S Face

A Yugoslavia expedition to Makalu in 1972 via S Face, led by Ales Kunaver. Summit reached on 24th October 1972. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2362
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA72301
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Ales Kunaver
Sponsor Yugoslav Expedition to Mount Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1972-09-05
Summit Date 1972-10-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 49
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/09,4900m),C1(08/09,5900m),C2(11/09,6300m),C3(03/10,7100,7200m),C4(12/10,7500m),C5(22/10,7850m),xxx(24/10,8100m)
Route Notes ND Shrestha - 6 Oct 72 Makalu expedition established C1 at 19,500 ft on 7th Sept C2 21,000 ft and 6 members had reached 24,000 ft while making route to C3. Kunaver - 24 Aug 72 1 full flight today. Last flight tomorrow at 1:00 pm Twin Otter. 165 porters - 25 Aug 72 Leave Tumlingtar 26 Aug. Kunaver - 22 Aug 72 4 members already in Tumlingtar today. Today 3:11. Yesterday 8. Tomorrow about 5 more days after expedition leave Tumlingtar 25th Aug. About 10 days to base at same site as French and Japanese. About 5th Sept arrived probably five high camps. If follow French route, sites exactly known. "It would be very pleasant to finish summit 20th Oct. After that date the winds starts to blow a bit stronger. If choose southern side, will take longer as more affected by monsoon's ending and more difficult pioneering required." Mail in Sept via RNAC Biratnagar until Tumlingtar flights start. Kunaver - 19 Aug 72 Plan to climb Makalu via S Face to either from Japanese route at 8000+ meters. Otherwise study French route. Depends on conditions: rock falling, etc. Scientists with expedition including Kunaver's brother. Sirdar+ 5-6 French Makalu Sherpas. Total 10 Sherpas with hopes 4 will go very high, 6 shuttle from base to advance basecamp. 45 climbing days, summit mid-Oct.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444577
Year 1972
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ales Kunaver M 1935 Yugoslavia Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Bus designer Details Other expeditions
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Technician Details Other expeditions
Janez Brojan M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Danilo Cedilnik M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Teacher of art Details Other expeditions
Janez Gregori M 1941 Yugoslavia Member Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Orientologist and nature conservationist Details Other expeditions
Zoran Jerin M 1925 Yugoslavia Journalist Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Journalist Details Other expeditions
Jure Kunaver M 1933 Yugoslavia Member Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia University assistant lecturer in geography Details Other expeditions
Janez Kunstelj M 1946 Yugoslavia Climber Jesenice, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Undergraduate university student in economics Details Other expeditions
Matija Malezic M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Undergraduate university student in electronics Details Other expeditions
Borut Pirc M 1938 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Clinical surgeon Details Other expeditions
Marjan Manfreda M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Bohinjska, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Frank Stupnik M 1945 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Printer Details Other expeditions
Tone Wraber M 1938 Yugoslavia Member Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Biologist (university assistant lecturer) Details Other expeditions
Janez (Janko) Azman M 1945 Yugoslavia Climber Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanic Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA72301 AAJ - - - 47:481 (1973) -
MAKA72301 - Kunaver, Ales Makalu Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, Yugoslavia - K366
MAKA72301 MM - - - 25:10 (Jan 1973) -
MAKA72301 MM - - - 28:12 (Jul 1973) -
MAKA72301 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Makalu - 64:46-49 (Nov 1978) -
MAKA72301 - Kunaver, Ales & Andlovic, Joze Na Vrh Svijeta Globus, Zagreb - K367
MAKA72301 - Kunaver, Ales & Kunaver, Dusica Maklu Private, Ljubljana - -
MAKA72301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348103/Asia-Nepal-Makalu - - -