Makalu | 1972 S Face
A Yugoslavia expedition to Makalu in 1972 via S Face, led by Ales Kunaver. Summit reached on 24th October 1972. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2362 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA72301 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1972 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Ales Kunaver |
| Sponsor | Yugoslav Expedition to Mount Makalu |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1972-09-05 |
| Summit Date | 1972-10-24 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 49 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8100m |
| High Point (m) | 8100 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(05/09,4900m),C1(08/09,5900m),C2(11/09,6300m),C3(03/10,7100,7200m),C4(12/10,7500m),C5(22/10,7850m),xxx(24/10,8100m) |
| Route Notes | ND Shrestha - 6 Oct 72 Makalu expedition established C1 at 19,500 ft on 7th Sept C2 21,000 ft and 6 members had reached 24,000 ft while making route to C3. Kunaver - 24 Aug 72 1 full flight today. Last flight tomorrow at 1:00 pm Twin Otter. 165 porters - 25 Aug 72 Leave Tumlingtar 26 Aug. Kunaver - 22 Aug 72 4 members already in Tumlingtar today. Today 3:11. Yesterday 8. Tomorrow about 5 more days after expedition leave Tumlingtar 25th Aug. About 10 days to base at same site as French and Japanese. About 5th Sept arrived probably five high camps. If follow French route, sites exactly known. "It would be very pleasant to finish summit 20th Oct. After that date the winds starts to blow a bit stronger. If choose southern side, will take longer as more affected by monsoon's ending and more difficult pioneering required." Mail in Sept via RNAC Biratnagar until Tumlingtar flights start. Kunaver - 19 Aug 72 Plan to climb Makalu via S Face to either from Japanese route at 8000+ meters. Otherwise study French route. Depends on conditions: rock falling, etc. Scientists with expedition including Kunaver's brother. Sirdar+ 5-6 French Makalu Sherpas. Total 10 Sherpas with hopes 4 will go very high, 6 shuttle from base to advance basecamp. 45 climbing days, summit mid-Oct. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444577 |
| Year | 1972 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ales Kunaver | M | 1935 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Bus designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez Brojan | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Danilo Cedilnik | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Teacher of art | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez Gregori | M | 1941 | Yugoslavia | Member | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Orientologist and nature conservationist | Details Other expeditions |
| Zoran Jerin | M | 1925 | Yugoslavia | Journalist | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Jure Kunaver | M | 1933 | Yugoslavia | Member | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | University assistant lecturer in geography | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez Kunstelj | M | 1946 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Jesenice, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Undergraduate university student in economics | Details Other expeditions |
| Matija Malezic | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Undergraduate university student in electronics | Details Other expeditions |
| Borut Pirc | M | 1938 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Clinical surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Manfreda | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Bohinjska, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Frank Stupnik | M | 1945 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Printer | Details Other expeditions |
| Tone Wraber | M | 1938 | Yugoslavia | Member | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Biologist (university assistant lecturer) | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez (Janko) Azman | M | 1945 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA72301 | AAJ | - | - | - | 47:481 (1973) | - |
| MAKA72301 | - | Kunaver, Ales | Makalu | Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, Yugoslavia | - | K366 |
| MAKA72301 | MM | - | - | - | 25:10 (Jan 1973) | - |
| MAKA72301 | MM | - | - | - | 28:12 (Jul 1973) | - |
| MAKA72301 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Makalu | - | 64:46-49 (Nov 1978) | - |
| MAKA72301 | - | Kunaver, Ales & Andlovic, Joze | Na Vrh Svijeta | Globus, Zagreb | - | K367 |
| MAKA72301 | - | Kunaver, Ales & Kunaver, Dusica | Maklu | Private, Ljubljana | - | - |
| MAKA72301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348103/Asia-Nepal-Makalu | - | - | - |