Makalu | 1954 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A France expedition to Makalu in 1954 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Jean Franco. Summit reached on 30th October 1954. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	2949
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	France
Leaders	Jean Franco
Sponsor	-
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Arun Valley->Barun Valley
Basecamp Date	1954-09-15
Summit Date	1954-10-30
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	45
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	4
Termination Notes	Bad weather
High Point (m)	7800
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	6
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	8
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	11
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	1
No Hired	False
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Makalu II (MAK2-543-01), Pethangtse (PETH-543-01), Chago (CHAG-543-01) and Chomo Lonzo (1st ascent); attempted Baruntse (BARU-543-01)
Campsites	BC(15/09,4700m),C1(5300m),C2(5800m),C3(6400m),C4(7000m),C5(15/10,7410m),xxx(30/10,7800m)
Route Notes	-
Accidents	LO died of illness
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2437945
Year	1954
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	Used
Route (lowercase)	makalu la-nw ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	22062
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Jean
Last Name	Franco
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1914
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	France
Status	Leader
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7410
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1914-1971) Died 2 Dec 1971
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2418418
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jean franco
Year of Birth	1914
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	26254
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Jean
Last Name	Bouvier
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1920
Calculated Age	34
Citizenship	France
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1914-1964) Died in 1964 in the Alps in an accident
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2420508
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jean bouvier
Year of Birth	1920
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26255
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Pierre
Last Name	Leroux
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1921
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	France
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1921-2005) Died 11 August 2005
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2420954
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	pierre leroux
Year of Birth	1921
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26256
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Guido
Last Name	Magnone
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1917
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	France
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2419364
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	guido magnone
Year of Birth	1917
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26257
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Jean
Last Name	Couzy
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1923
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	France
Status	Climber
Residence	Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1954-10-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1923-1958) Disappeared 2 November 1958 in the Alps
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2421686
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jean couzy
Year of Birth	1923
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26258
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	08
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Lionel
Last Name	Terray
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1921
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	France
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1954-10-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1921-1965) Died 19 September 1965 in the French Alps from fall
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2420974
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	lionel terray
Year of Birth	1921
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26259
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Jean
Last Name	Rivolier
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1923
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	France
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	-
Occupation	Physician & geologist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1923-2007) Died 27 April 2007
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2421558
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jean rivolier
Year of Birth	1923
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26260
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Pierre
Last Name	Bordet
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1914
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	France
Status	Scientist
Residence	-
Occupation	Geologist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1914-1996)
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	-1915
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	pierre bordet
Year of Birth	1914
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	40
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	26261
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	09
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Gyaltsen Norbu
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1918
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	India
Status	Sirdar
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	HC #145; aka Gyalgen IV
Necrology	(1918-1961) Died 11 May 1961 on Langtang Lirung from avalanche
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	145
Checksum	-1919
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gyaltsen norbu sherpa
Year of Birth	1918
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	36
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	26264
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Member ID	10
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	1954
Season	3
First Name	Dilli Bahadur
Last Name	Verma
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Liaison Officer
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	10
Death Height (m)	4700
Death Class	2
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Died of pneumonia at BC
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1954) Died in 1954 at Makalu BC from pneumonia
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	-86
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	dilli bahadur verma
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	BC Only

10 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Jean Franco	M	1914	France	Leader	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Jean Bouvier	M	1920	France	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Pierre Leroux	M	1921	France	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Guido Magnone	M	1917	France	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Jean Couzy	M	1923	France	Climber	Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Lionel Terray	M	1921	France	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Jean Rivolier	M	1923	France	Exp Doctor	-	Physician & geologist	Details Other expeditions
Pierre Bordet	M	1914	France	Scientist	-	Geologist	Details Other expeditions
Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa	M	1918	India	Sirdar	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Dilli Bahadur Verma	M	-	Nepal	Liaison Officer	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	907
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	01
Year	1954
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Franco, Jean
Title	Makalu
Publisher	Jonathan Cape, London
Publication Date	1957
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	F183
Notes	English edition of "Makalu", Paris, 1955

Field	Value
ID	908
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	02
Year	1954
Type	2
Journal	HJ
Author	Franco, Jean
Title	Makalu - The Happy Mountain
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1956
Language	-
Citation	19:68-74 (1955-56)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	909
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	03
Year	1954
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1955
Language	-
Citation	29:179 (1955)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	1000
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	04
Year	1954
Type	2
Journal	AJ
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1955
Language	-
Citation	60:175 (May 1955)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	1220
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	05
Year	1954
Type	2
Journal	MW
Author	Kurz, Marcel
Title	The Himalayan Chronicle 1954
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1955
Language	-
Citation	114-116 (1955)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	13350
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	06
Year	1954
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517901/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Makalu
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	13762
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA54301
Reference ID	07
Year	1954
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/5/makalu-the-happy-mountain/
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
MAKA54301	-	Franco, Jean	Makalu	Jonathan Cape, London	-	F183
MAKA54301	HJ	Franco, Jean	Makalu - The Happy Mountain	-	19:68-74 (1955-56)	-
MAKA54301	AAJ	-	-	-	29:179 (1955)	-
MAKA54301	AJ	-	-	-	60:175 (May 1955)	-
MAKA54301	MW	Kurz, Marcel	The Himalayan Chronicle 1954	-	114-116 (1955)	-
MAKA54301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517901/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Makalu	-	-	-
MAKA54301	-	-	https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/5/makalu-the-happy-mountain/	-	-	-