Makalu | 1954 S Face-SE Ridge
A USA expedition to Makalu in 1954 via S Face-SE Ridge, led by William Siri. Summit reached on 2nd June 1954. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2947 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA54101 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 1954 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | William Siri |
| Sponsor | Californian Makalu Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | UK |
| Approach | Arun Valley->Barun Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1954-04-04 |
| Summit Date | 1954-06-02 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 59 |
| Total Days | 65 |
| Termination Date | 1954-06-08 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7150m due to approaching monsoon |
| High Point (m) | 7150 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 12 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(04/04,4725m),C1(19/04,5030m),C2(5485m),C3(26/04,6550m),C4(12/05,6700m),C5(01/06,7000m),xxx(02/06,7150m) |
| Route Notes | - |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2437795 |
| Year | 1954 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s face-se ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| William E. Siri | M | 1919 | USA | Leader | - | Physicist, Univ of California | Details Other expeditions |
| Lawrence Wesley (Larry) Swan | M | 1922 | UK | Scientist | - | Biologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Nello Pace | M | 1916 | USA | Scientist | - | Physiologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Fritz Lippmann | M | 1921 | USA | Climber | - | High school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard C. Houston | M | 1922 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Allen Parker Steck | M | 1926 | USA | Climber | - | Sporting goods store manager | Details Other expeditions |
| William Ellis Long | M | 1930 | USA | Climber | - | Air Force survival instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Leo Bruce Meyer | M | 1922 | USA | Climber/Exp Doctor | - | Orthopedic physician | Details Other expeditions |
| William Francis (Willi) Unsoeld | M | 1926 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| William Worden Dunmire | M | 1930 | USA | Climber | - | Graduate student in zoology | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Tharkay Sherpa | M | 1908 | Nepal | Sirdar | Khunde, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAKA54101 | AAJ | Dunmire, William & Unsoeld, WIlliam | Makalu, 1954 | - | 29:7-24 (1955) | - |
| MAKA54101 | HJ | Meyer, Bruce & Lippmann, Fritz | First Attempt on Makalu, 1954 | - | 19:57-67 (1955-56) | - |
| MAKA54101 | MW | Kurz, Marcel | The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 | - | 111-113 (1955) | - |
| MAKA54101 | - | Swan, Lawrence W. | Tales of the Himalaya | Mountain N'Air Books, La Crescenta, CA | - | - |
| MAKA54101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195500700/Makalu-1954-California-Himalayan-Expedition | - | - | - |
| MAKA54101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/4/first-attempt-on-makalu-1954/ | - | - | - |