Makalu | 1954 S Face-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Makalu in 1954 via S Face-SE Ridge, led by William Siri. Summit reached on 2nd June 1954. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2947
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA54101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 1954
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders William Siri
Sponsor Californian Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Arun Valley->Barun Valley
Basecamp Date 1954-04-04
Summit Date 1954-06-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 59
Total Days 65
Termination Date 1954-06-08
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7150m due to approaching monsoon
High Point (m) 7150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4725m),C1(19/04,5030m),C2(5485m),C3(26/04,6550m),C4(12/05,6700m),C5(01/06,7000m),xxx(02/06,7150m)
Route Notes -
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2437795
Year 1954
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face-se ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
William E. Siri M 1919 USA Leader - Physicist, Univ of California Details Other expeditions
Lawrence Wesley (Larry) Swan M 1922 UK Scientist - Biologist Details Other expeditions
Nello Pace M 1916 USA Scientist - Physiologist Details Other expeditions
Fritz Lippmann M 1921 USA Climber - High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Richard C. Houston M 1922 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Allen Parker Steck M 1926 USA Climber - Sporting goods store manager Details Other expeditions
William Ellis Long M 1930 USA Climber - Air Force survival instructor Details Other expeditions
Leo Bruce Meyer M 1922 USA Climber/Exp Doctor - Orthopedic physician Details Other expeditions
William Francis (Willi) Unsoeld M 1926 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
William Worden Dunmire M 1930 USA Climber - Graduate student in zoology Details Other expeditions
Ang Tharkay Sherpa M 1908 Nepal Sirdar Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA54101 AAJ Dunmire, William & Unsoeld, WIlliam Makalu, 1954 - 29:7-24 (1955) -
MAKA54101 HJ Meyer, Bruce & Lippmann, Fritz First Attempt on Makalu, 1954 - 19:57-67 (1955-56) -
MAKA54101 MW Kurz, Marcel The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 - 111-113 (1955) -
MAKA54101 - Swan, Lawrence W. Tales of the Himalaya Mountain N'Air Books, La Crescenta, CA - -
MAKA54101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195500700/Makalu-1954-California-Himalayan-Expedition - - -
MAKA54101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/4/first-attempt-on-makalu-1954/ - - -