Makalu | 2022 Makalu La-NW Ridge
A Georgia expedition to Makalu in 2022 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Archil Badriashvili. Summit reached on 9th May 2022. 41 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 10855 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA22101 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 2022 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Georgia |
| Leaders | Archil Badriashvili |
| Sponsor | Seven Summit Treks (SST) Makalu Expedition 2022 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Argentina, Australia, Brazil, China, France, Iran, Italy, Kosovo, Mexico, Nepal, Pakistan, Poland, Russia, Taiwan, UK, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 2022-05-09 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8485 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 26 |
| Summit Members | 21 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 26 |
| Summit Hired | 15 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(4800m),ABC(5700m),C1,C2,C3,C4,Smt(09,12,20,24,28/05) |
| Route Notes | Report from Yuri Contreras: BC 23/04 4800m ABC 25/04 5700m C1 -- 6100m C2 29/04 6500m C3 10/05 7500m C4 -- 7800m Smt 12/05 by Contreras, Gonzalez del Castillo at 9:45 am, Kotlyar, Reza Shahlaee, Carlos Santalena, Lakpa at 9:45 am Summit team left C3 at 8 pm on 11/05. The rope was fixed to the summit by SST Sherpas and Alpenglow. At 7900m where the French Couloirs starts they heard someone shouting out of a crevasse. Carlos Santalena had fallen into a crevasse. Vladimir Kotlyar took out a small rope and made a pully system to get Carlos out. They did and that was the point where Carlos started to use oxygen. Otherwise straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 13/05 Contreras and Gonzalez descended to BC. At about 5800m on the rocky moraine they used a fixed rope to arm wrap down. Gonzalez was first and when Contreras started his way down, the rope broke. He fell about 6 metres into Gonzalez who broke his fall. He wore a buff on his head so they could not see the extend of the hole in his head. Despite his injury he walked to BC from where they called Global Rescue, but they said they could not fly due to bad weather. Silvio Mondinelli and all the other people at BC cleaned the wound and bandaged him. Contreras was bleeding heavily. On 14/05 at 8 am a helicopter came to pick him up and flew him to Lukla where he received stitches in the hospital. According to Contreras it was like in Vietnam War. While Doctor Anees was stitching him up the helicopter was waiting to take him to Kathmandu, so he was in a hurry. In Kathmandu, he went to Norvic Clinic where he stayed for one night. When Contreras was picked up by helicopter, Gonzalez took a later helicopter with Simone Moro to Dingboche and then to Lukla. She was stuck in Lukla for 3 days and returned to Kathmandu on 17/05. Sherpas: 2 Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Contreras [and Gonzalez] Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Sherpas. Report from Grace Tseng: ABC by heli from Kathmandu. ABC 07/04 5700m C1 08/04 6200m C2 09/04 6700m C3 10/04 7500m Smt 12/04 by Tseng, Nima [Gyalzen] at 2:30 pm. Summit team left C3 at 8 pm on 11/04. Straightforward climb. They stayed for about 15 mins on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 12 midnight. Left BC on 13/05 by heli to Dingboche. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Tseng and Nima. Report from Reza Shahlaee: Approach: Trekked from Num BC 23/04 4800m ABC 25/04 5700m C1 28/04 6100m C2 29/04 6500m C3 10/05 7500m C4 -- 7800m Smt 12/05 by Shahlaee, Lakpa Temba Sherpa, Thomas Bhote at 9:30 am. Summit team left C3 at 9 pm. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C3 where they arrived at 2 pm. On 13/05 to BC. Left BC on 14/05 by heli. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Shahlaee, Lakpa Temba no O2 (his regulator was broken). Report from Uta Ibrahimi: Approach: Trekked from Num. BC 23/04 4800m ABC 25/04 5700m C1 -- 6100m C2 29/04 6500m C3 10/05 7500m C4 -- 7800m Smt 12/05 by Ibrahimi, Chinjung Bhote at 5 am. Summit team left C3 at 8 pm. Straightforward climb, however, just below the summit there was a hold up and they waited there for about half an hour. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and they descended to BC where they arrived at 4:30 pm. Left BC on 14/05 by heli. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Ibrahimi and Bhote. Report from Maya Sherpa: Approach: Trekked from Tumlingtar. BC 23/04 4800m ABC 25/04 5700m C1 -- 6100m C2 29/04 6500m C3 09/05 7500m C4 11/05 7800m Smt 12/05 by Maya Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa at 7 am. Summit team left C4 at 7.30 pm. Weather was good and some of the SST clients left from C3. Straightforward climb. After the summit they descended to C3. The following day they descended to BC. Left BC on 14/05 by heli. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Maya and Pasang [Ongdi]. Report from Silvio Mondinelli: Approach: Trekked from Num. BC 23/04 4800m ABC 25/04 5700m C1 -- 6100m C2 29/04 6500m C3 10/05 7500m HPt 12/05 8300m by Manni at 10 am. Mondinelli reached 8100m and turned around because of cold feet. Manni reached 8300m and turned around due to cold feet as well. Left BC on 14/05 by heli. When Yuri Contreras arrived at BC with his gash in his head, Mondinelli was instrumental in looking after his wound. Sherpas: None Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Report from Shehroze Kashif: ABC 23/05 5700m by helicopter from Kathmandu C1 -- 6300m C2 26/04 6600m C3 27/05 7500m C4 -- 7800m Smt 28/05 by Kashif and Namja Bhote at 6:45 am. Team left C3 at 7:30 pm on 27/05. After the summit team descended all the way to ABC where they arrived at 6 pm. Left BC on 29/05 by helicopter. Oxygen: From C3 to top to C3 by Kashif and Namja Bhote. Report from Georgian Facebook page (translated): Dream come true at Makalu and our first ever ascent to the 5th peak of the earth, 8486m. Getting high on the black pyramid. Of course without the oxygen helper!. Two of the three, Giorgi Tefnadze and Bakar Gelashvili were the first to be treated at the summit of Makalu with a 7-man international team, and I believed in the name of a successful organizer and learned my lesson. The expedition returned safely to Tbilisi, and at the top the flag of Ukraine was unfurled along with Georgia to show our support! On expedition walk: Journey started from Kathmandu by drive, mountainous road (900m - 5700m) walked both forward and back. April 12th we conducted base camp at the bottom of Macaloo at 5700m. After this, we were the first ones to make our way to the first and second camps (6450m), then up to 7000 metres, then to camp 3 (7450m) and finally to camp 4 (7600m), did a lot of hard work and marked the way. After that, the Sherpas hung their ropes up to 8000 meters (here they met ice and one person died, they landed), the next force was made by the united Sherpas and the team of Ecuadorian highland Estaban "Topo" Mena, they took the rope to the top balcony S and they have landed. Then in the storm that was supposed to crown us at the end of the summit we were in and the peak day was chosen May 9th. The road to the summit that goes all the way to Tibet is long and tedious, the technical difficulty is above 8200 meters, the weather was good for this hike, though windy and cloudy sun. We left the fourth camp at midnight. At this moment we all gathered together, so 10. I walked all night long (more of a struggle) by myself until 6 am due to the strange deterioration of consciousness and freezing hazards that drained me all night. I decided to come back. Bearers were on the French Couloure this time, Sherps ran the rope on the last stretch and at 9:40 am the boys climbed the summit! He raised the flags of Georgia and Ukraine in high spirits, Georgian wine was there too!. Although I have learned a lot throughout the process, I consider my failure to climb and return 8000 meters a personal loss, as a friend of George and Bakari and the organizer of the expedition I am proud that the expedition successfully and peacefully, without strategic mistakes and injuries, and the wishes of previous generations came true, Georgians on Makalu. We went up, and did a great job! From Sebastian Satka's Facebook page: A couple of years ago I had already made a teaser to Seven Summit Treks and we were going to go with Luciano Badino Eexpeditions, but the pandemic came and we couldn't even go to the corner. In the middle of March this year I received an email from Seven Summit Treks asking me if I was going this year, as there was a large group and the fee of the permit wasn't that expensive. And just like those things that get you out of comfort from day to day, that email was the slap to put the team together and in a week I was already landing in Kathmandu, I couldn't believe I was going up alone, without sherpas, nor O2 the Makalu. And I think I still don't dimension the fact that I've been there in the most beautiful way to climb a mountain. I wasn't really that alone. On the way I met a wonderful group with whom we share a lot, there was even a small tango class at 7500 meters above sea level. I decided to use the stationary ropes since they were just there and I didn’t mean to do anything “weird”. For me being there in those conditions was enough. Every day was the height routine: more than 6 litres per day, staying dry and warm, seeing that the tent was armed bomb test and walking carefully not to mess up or not to get one into a crack and so far everything was going very well. Unfortunately a respiratory infection has put me out of the game. I had slept 2 nights at 7500m above ground level and it felt great. I did an "attempt to summit" which actually the idea was to hit height to get down to the C.B. and rest to do the summit attempt. But if I was feeling good that day, I would keep going all the way up. Passed C4 and already started to feel a bit tired, decided to go back to C3, sleep for a while and back to C.B. Then the cough, fever and constant waiting didn't let me go. I was in the C.B. for a few days with the hope of healing, but it wasn't. All events that can occur in an ascension of such features must be accepted. It was all over for me. Or maybe, thanks to that cough, it all started. I had the opportunity to meet Simone Moro and at a lunch he filled me with recommendations for upcoming climbs. Keep polishing and planning the next step. Report from Catherine Vulliez: BC 15/04 4800m ABC 17/04 5650m C1 21/04 6500m C2 C3 -- 7400m Smt 09/05 by Vulliez, Gelashvili, Tepnadze and Nuru Wangchhu at 10:50 am. Vulliez and Nuru Wangchu left C3 on 08/05 at 22:50 (Gelashvili, Tepnadze and Badriashvili started from C4, around 10:45 pm when we arrived there). Clear night, not cold, fog when we arrived at the top of the French Couloir, little wind only around fore=summit, very hot on the way down. With Nuru, I spent nearly 20 minutes at the summit, we descended to C3. With Nuru, reaching it at around 5 pm. Left BC on 15/05 by walking out. Used O2 from 6800m on the way up and down. Vulliez was a client of Satori Adventures on the SST permit. Report from Jon Gupta: ABC 17/04 5700m by heli Ktm-Pheriche-MAKA BC C2 18/04 6600m C3 19/05 7500m Smt 20/05 by Gupta, Booth, Lakpa and Tashi at 4:30 am. Team set out from C3 at 21:00 on 19/05, summited at 4:30 am on 20/05. Stayed 30 minutes. Warm, lite winds, very dry. Back to BC by mid-day. Left BC on 21/05 by heli. Gupta and Booth used O2 from/to 6600, Sherpas from/to 7500m. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Seven Summit Treks |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2464206 |
| Year | 2022 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge |
Members
41 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Archil Badriashvili | M | 1990 | Georgia | Leader | Tblisi, Georgia | Alpine guide & medical student | Details Other expeditions |
| Viridiana Alvarez Chavez | F | 1983 | Mexico | Climber | Aguascalientes, Mexico | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Adam Stephen Booth | M | 1981 | UK | Climber | Shrewsbury, Shropshire, England | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Adriana Brownlee Pinon | F | 2001 | UK | Climber | London, England | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Xue Chen | F | 1987 | China | Climber | Pacific Harbor, Fiji | Writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Contreras Cedi | M | 1963 | Mexico | Climber | Leon, Guanajuato, Mexico | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Bakari Gelashvili | M | 1986 | Georgia | Climber | Borjomi, Georgia | Rescue guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Laura Gonzalez del Castillo Aranda | F | 1966 | Mexico | Climber | Leon, Guanajuato, Mexico | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Jackson David Groves | M | 1991 | Australia | Climber | Adelaide, SA, Australia | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan Christian Gupta | M | 1986 | UK | Climber | Caernarfon, Wales | Expedition leader | Details Other expeditions |
| Flutura (Uta) Ibrahimi | F | 1983 | Kosovo | Climber | Prishtine, Kosovo | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Shehroze Kashif | M | 2002 | Pakistan | Climber | Lahore, Pakistan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pema Khando Chinyam | F | 1992 | USA | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Kotlyar | M | 1988 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Manager & alpine guide for 7 Summits Club | Details Other expeditions |
| Roberto Manni | M | 1963 | Italy | Climber | Madonna di Campiglio, Trento, Italy | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Alasdair Scot McKenzie | M | 2004 | France | Climber | Lorient, Brittany, France | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Silvio Mondinelli | M | 1958 | Italy | Climber | Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Leonardo Alves Pena | M | 1974 | Brazil | Climber | Minas Gerats, Brazil | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorota Lidia Rasinska-Samocko | F | 1973 | Poland | Climber | Warsaw, Poland | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Carlos Eduardo Santalena | M | 1986 | Brazil | Climber | Campinas, Sao Paulo, Brazil | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Sebastian Satke | M | 1976 | Argentina | Climber | Mendoza, Argentina | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Mohammad Rezashahram (Reza) Shahlaei | M | 1959 | Iran | Climber | Tehran, Iran | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Maya Sherpa | F | 1978 | Nepal | Climber | Patle-5, Okhaldhunga | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Giorgi Tepnadze | M | 1989 | Georgia | Climber | Tbilisi, Georgia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ko-Erh (Grace) Tseng | F | 1992 | Taiwan | Climber | Taipai, Taiwan | Freelancer | Details Other expeditions |
| Catherine Marcelle Rosa Vulliez | F | 1966 | France | Climber | Saint Jean d`Aulps, Haute-Savoie, France | Chief operator of a chairlift | Details Other expeditions |
| Chinjung Bhote | M | 1992 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Namja/Namgya Bhote | M | 1997 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Hatiya-3, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Bhote | M | 2002 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Bhotkhola-3, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyalje (Gelje) Sherpa | M | 1992 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Tapting-3, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lakpa Sherpa | M | 1986 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lakpa Temba Sherpa | M | 1985 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ngangba Sherpa | M | 1988 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Gyalzen Sherpa | M | 1985 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nuru Wangchu Sherpa | M | 1977 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Ongdi Sherpa | M | 1989 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tashi Sherpa | M | 2000 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-1, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tawa Chhiri Sherpa | M | 1979 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Charwo, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenjing (Ang Tenjing) Sherpa | M | 1987 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-4, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenzing (Tenji) Sherpa | M | 1992 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenzing (Tenzen) Sherpa | M | 1987 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.