Makalu | 2021 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Georgia expedition to Makalu in 2021 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Archil Badriashvili. Summit reached on 24th May 2021. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10642
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA21101
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2021
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Georgia
Leaders Archil Badriashvili
Sponsor Satori Adventures Makalu Expedition 2021
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France, India, Iran, USA
Approach By Jeep to Num, then classic Barun Valley trek
Basecamp Date 2021-04-15
Summit Date 2021-05-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 39
Total Days 48
Termination Date 2021-06-02
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 700
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits BADRIASHVILI ARCHIL
Campsites BC(15/04,5700m),C1(20/04,6560m),C2(07/05,7450m),xxx(24/05,7800m)
Route Notes Report from Badriashvili and Tepnadze: Approach: By Jeep to Num, then classic Barun Valley trek. BC 15/04 5700m (usual ABC) C1 20/04 6560m (usual C2, skipped C1, as most people did btw) C2 07/05 7450m (usual C3) at Makalu La HPt 24/05 7800m (above ususal C4 by Badriashvili and Tepnadze). Fixed rope: 700m by themselves, in total. Fixed 500m to 600m until C1, including circa 200m at an ice wall at 6300m halfway to C1 (on 17/04). Fixed 1 roll of Korean ropes (200m) above C1, plus refixed old ropes also between C1 and C2. Climb abandoned on 25/05 due to bad weather conditions. Left BC on 26/05. Members at end: Badriashvili and Tepnadze. Sherpas above BC: 0 Oxygen: not taken, not used After 7 days of quarantine, it happened that the flight to Tumlingtar was postponed. So took instead a jeep, starting 24-hour non-stop travel to Num. Were the first climbers to arrive on the mountain's normal route, so begun to equip the route themselves, fixing ropes in the hard parts (steep or too crevassy). Sherpa team (cleaning expedition) fixed from 7050m to Makalu La. Between C3 and C4, Sherpas also fixed a little bit...Georgians stayed in total more than 40 days on the mountain. Georgian attempt started on May 23rd in the evening at 11 pm from C2, and ended at about 3 am on May 24th. The weather forescast was announced very bad from the morning, so tried to go to the top ASAP, pushed by the weather forecast. Other teams had started 1 or 2 hours before. The duet met the latter going back down, retreating, but they continued in very bad weather, with no visibility in the night, just breaking trail. Found C4 place, then the big slope which leaves to the “French Couloir”. But at some point, they understood to have been slightly too much to the right. In fact they just couldn't see the way because of the weather. The slope was also becoming avalanche prone. So they decided to turn around, it was too dangerous to continue as they couldn't see the route anyway ("everything is different from Makalu La plateau up there; it's long, big distances"). They were at circa 7800m, as confirmed by the GPS and satellite phone, in the glacier section. Went back to C2 at sunrise in strong snow, between 5 and 6 am, then straight to BC on the same day. It was the first and last attempt for the summit in the season before the monsoon's arrival. The teams starting a day after them also went down. Some other people stayed, some other even arrived later. But for the latter, there would have been too much snow; even if with good weather, they couldn't have gone up. In such conditions, they decided the expedition was over on the 25th. It was their second experience on a classic route of an 8000er, this time with many more people on the route, but eventually “not in our taste”. “With many other people around, we could take and share a lot of ideas one one hand, but on the other mostly learned to be more independent and eventually rely on ourselves. Despite the concentration of people on the peak, we couldn't in fact achieve something all together”. Report from Catherine Vulliez: Approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked to BC, then ABC BC(20/04,4800m),ABC(21/04,5690m),C1(26/04,6150m),C2(01/05,6600m), C3(23/05,7400m),xxx Vulliez abandoned expedition after too much snow from two cyclones. Left BC: 02/06 Oxygen: Used from 7000m up and down until C2 (6600m). Hired: Nuru Wangchu Sherpa Report from Alireza Behpour: Approach: By Jeep to Num, trekked to BC BC(23/04,5700m),C1(30/04,6100m),C2(01/05,6550m),C3(23/05,7430m),xxx(24/05,7700m) High point reached by Alireza Behpour, Morteza Ramezani, Chebi Bhote and Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa on 24 May, then abandoned due to unexpected bad weather and lack of fixed rope. "Unstable weather in all time that finally with heavy snow fall up to 120cm made us termiate our expedition. Also it was not clear who was responsible for fixing rope to summit. Some of the personal Sherpas of the members refused to participate in fixing the route. But overall it was a god experience and very beautiful mountain." Oxygen: From C3 to 7700m Left BC on 2 June. Garrett Madison and Chase Merriam went to Makalu BC in early June, but left without climbing due to deep snow. Here Sherpa only went up to C2.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Satori Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464665
Year 2021
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Archil Badriashvili M 1990 Georgia Leader Tblisi, Georgia Alpine guide & medical student Details Other expeditions
Alireza Behpour M 1964 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Physician Details Other expeditions
Keval Hiren Kakka M 1991 India Climber Mumbai, India Mountain Marks trekking company owner Details Other expeditions
Garrett Christian Madison M 1978 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Chase Allan Merriam M 2001 USA Climber Lakewood Ranch, Florida Student Details Other expeditions
Morteza Ramezani M 1976 Iran Climber Tehran, Iran Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Giorgi Tepnadze M 1989 Georgia Climber Tbilisi, Georgia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Catherine Marcelle Rosa Vulliez F 1966 France Climber Saint Jean d`Aulps, Haute-Savoie, France Chief operator of a chairlift Details Other expeditions
Chhebi Bhote M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Hungung, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Nuru Wangchu Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.