Makalu | 2014 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Makalu in 2014 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Russell Brice, Suzanne Huesser. Summit reached on 25th May 2014. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8448
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA14122
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2014
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Russell Brice, Suzanne Huesser
Sponsor Himalayan Experience (Himex) Makalu Expedition 2014
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France, Germany, Japan, Netherlands, Russia, Switzerland, USA
Approach Everest BC->Pheriche
Basecamp Date 2014-04-17
Summit Date 2014-05-25
Summit Time 0400
Summit Days 38
Total Days 41
Termination Date 2014-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 6
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/04,5650m),C1(21/04,6065m),C2(23/04,6626m),C3(29/04,7400m),C4(24/05,7590m),Smt(25/05)
Route Notes BC -- ABC 17/04 5650m C1 21/04 6065m C2 23/04 6626m (directly below Makalu La) C3 29/04 7400m C4 24/05 7590m Smt 25/05 by Baranov, Tashi Chhiring, Sand, Pemba Gyalzen at 4 am; by Ishikawa, Schmitz and Pasang Chhiring at 4:15 am; by Rene Bergsma and Chumba at 4:45 am; by Bierling, Huesser, Chhebi Bhote and Lakpa Nuru at 5 am. First summit attempt started on 15 May from ABC. All members and Sherpas reached C2 and stayed the night, which was very windy. The following morning 16 May was too windy to climb up to C3 (Makalu La) and Seven Summit Sherpas were unable to fix rope from bottom of French Couloirs to summit due to high winds. Everyone descended to ABC. Second summit attempt started on 22 May from BC. Reached C4 on 24 May in good, but windy weather. Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 24 May. Good conditions on the way. Sketchy rope fixing in French Couloirs and on summit ridge. Good views from the summit and members spent an average of about 20 to 30 minutes on the top. All members returned to C4 between 7 am and 9 am. Huesser had a cough all the way through expedition, which turned into pneumonia on the way down from the summit. She descended al the way to ABC, where she arrived at about 8 pm. Ishikawa, Baranov, Sand and all Sherpas also descended to ABC, where they arrived at 5 pm. Bierling, Bergsma and Schmitz spent the night at C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. They descended to ABC on 26 May. Casagrande reached C2 on 23 April. He skied with Baranov from C2 to crampon point. He was employed as Baranov's skiing guide; however, the two disagreed about the skiing conditions on the mountain. Casagrande was not happy with the conditions, but Baranov wanted to continue skiing, so Baranov told Casagrande that he would no longer need him. Casagrande left ABC by helicopter on the morning of 25 April. Smith decided that mountain was too hard for him and took helicopter to Kathmandu on 17 May. His high point was 7200m below the second rock band on 30 April. Schneider was the expedition doctor and never intended to leave ABC. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3 by members, apart from Huesser, who used it all the way down to ABC Sherpas: Lopsang Temba, 1968, Khumjung, Khumbu Tashi Chhiring, 8/5/1990, Khumjung, Khumbu Pasang Chhiring, 2040/7/5, Khumjung, Khumbu, South Col with Bangladeshis in 2006 Chumba Sherpa, 2045/1/9,Jubing-6, 1st 8000er Chhebi Bhote, 30/9/74, Hatiya-3, Makalu Lakpa Nuru, 1962, Phortse, Khumjung
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459762
Year 2014
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Baranov M 1969 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Banker Details Other expeditions
Renee Michael Bergsma M 1957 Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Barbara Susanne (Billi) Bierling F 1967 Germany Climber Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, Germany Journalist Details Other expeditions
Julien Casagrande M 1986 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Suzanne Katharina Huesser F 1967 Switzerland Deputy Leader Visperterminen, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Naoki Ishikawa M 1977 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Heidi Schott Sand F 1966 Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Artist Details Other expeditions
Joseph B. Schneider M 1975 USA Exp Doctor Northampton, Massachusetts Physician Details Other expeditions
Jacob Francis Schmitz M 1975 USA Climber Bend, Oregon Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stuart Gregory Smith M 1959 USA Climber Waco, Texas Attorney Details Other expeditions
Lobsang Temba (Lupsang Temba) Sherpa M 1968 Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tashi Chhiring (Tashi Tshering) Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Chhiring Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chumba (Chhungba) Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Jubing-3, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhebi Bhote M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Hungung, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Lakpa Nuru Sherpa M 1962 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung/Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Russell Reginald Brice M 1952 New Zealand Leader Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA14122 - - http://himalayanexperience.com/newsletters/makalu-2014 - - -