Makalu | 2013 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Georgia expedition to Makalu in 2013 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Gia Tortladze, Asian Trekking Staff. Summit reached on 22nd May 2013. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8133
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA13112
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Georgia
Leaders Gia Tortladze, Asian Trekking Staff
Sponsor Asian Trekking International Makalu Expedition 2013
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium, Colombia, India, USA
Approach Tumlingtar->Makalu BC
Basecamp Date 2013-04-15
Summit Date 2013-05-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 40
Termination Date 2013-05-25
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of fixed rope
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m),C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7500m),xxx(22/05,8200m)
Route Notes The Asian Trekking International Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1 climber each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below: Gia Tortladze (Georgia) Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m), C3(20/05,7300m),C4(21/05,7500m),xxx(22/05,8200m) Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to long, no fixed rope, too icy On 21 May Tortladze left at 8 pm with other Asian Trekking members. Weather good, but windy from sunrise on. When they reached end of fixed rope the team decided to turn back. He descended to C4. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to BC. Sherpa: Premba Tamang Will Cross (USA) Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(19/05,19/05,6700m),xxx Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 6700m due to breathing problem Cross reached C2 during first acclimatization rotation on 26 April (only tagged it) and was feeling fine. When he went back for the summit attempt on 19 May, he was struggling to get to C2 as he had difficulties breathing. He spent the night on oxygen and descended to BC the next morning. He was evacuated by helicopter from BC on 25 May. Oxygen: Taken and used at C2 for sleeping by Cross Sherpas: Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle), 1/2/1960, Phortse, Khumbu Tonya Clement (USA) Camps: BC(17/04,5000m),ABC(19/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m), C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m) Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to oxygen system failed, end of fixed rope Clement left with rest of Asian Trekking team at 8 pm on 21 May. The weather was perfect. However, when she arrived at the end of the fixed rope, she decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on, so she turned back at 5 am. On top of that she was having problems with her oxygen bottle (it was leaking). She descended to C2, arrived at 5 pm. On 23 May to BC. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to high point C3 Sherpa: Lhakpa Tshering, (17/7/76), Khumjung-3, Khumbu Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio (Colombia) Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6700m), C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m) Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1? Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to end of fixed rope On 21 May Gonzalez with other Asian Trekking members left at 8 pm. Weather was good until sunrise, then 50 km/hr and it got very cold. The rest of team descended at 7 am at end of fixed rope. Gonzalez carried on with the David Goettler team, but turned back as he was tired and got cold feet. He descended to BC arriving at 5 pm. Team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Sherpas were fixing lines. Weather was good, a bit windy (40 km/h). On way to French couloirs they found out that the Sherpas only had 40m of rope left. Nima Gyalgen said that they would need another 200m of rope and they decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on. They turned back at 5:30 am. Vajpai descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm. Fernando arrived at 5 pm, Krishna arrived at 10:30 pm. Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Vajpai, Krishnaa From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas Fernando no oxygen High Point by Gonzalez and Patil, Nawangle (ex-w Cross), Nima Gyalgen (w Gonzalez?), Tshering Phinjo (w Vajpai), Prema Tamang (w Tortadze), Pasang Namgyal (w Patil), Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa (w Clement) Dominique Dejose (Belgium) Camps: BC(15/04,6000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6300m), xxx(28/04,6300m) Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 6300m due to mountain difficulty On 1st rotation, Dejose reached C2 and slept there. When back at BC he decided that mountain was too hard for him and he would not carry on. He stayed at BC to wait for fellow Asian Trekking climbers. Dejose also said that he didn't feel comfortable with Asian Trek services. Krushnaa Patil (India) Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6500m), C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m) Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to end of fixed rope, worried that descent would be difficult On 21 May Patil left C4 at 8 pm with rest of Asian Trekking team. When she reached end of fixed ropes, the team decided to turn back as it was too icy to carry on without fixed rope. She descended to C2, arrived at 2 pm. At 6 pm she continued to BC and arrived there at 6 pm. Sherpa: Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/1972, Khumjung, Khumbu Arjun Vajpai (India) Camps: BC(15/04,5000m),ABC(17/04,5600m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(25/04,6700m), C3(20/05,7400m),C4(21/05,7600m),xxx(22/05,8200m) Left: 25/05/2013 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 8200m due to not enough rope Team together with other Asian Trekking clients, left C4 at 8:30 pm on 21 May. Sherpas were fixing lines. Weather was good, but pretty windy, about 40km/h. On way to French couloirs they found out that the Sherpas only had 40m of rope left, which was not enough to fix all the way to the summit. They decided that it would be too dangerous to carry on and turned back at 5:30 am. Vajpai descended to BC, where he arrived at 2 pm. Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by Vajpay and Krishna From C4 to high point to C4 by Sherpas Sherpa: Tshering Phinjo, Khumjung, 29/04/1973
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459393
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Arjun Vajpai M 1993 India Climber Noida, UP, India Student Details Other expeditions
Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle) Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Krushnaa Madhav Patil F 1989 India Climber Mumbai (Bombay), India Student & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pasang Namgyal Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dominique M. J. M. N. Dejose M 1960 Belgium Climber Roeil Malmaison, Belgium Promoter of sport and marketing Details Other expeditions
Fernando Alonso Gonzalez-Rubio Polanco M 1968 Colombia Climber Bogota, Colombia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ngima Gyalzen Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Mamerku, Chheskam, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tonya Rae Riggs Clement F 1963 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Business (sales and marketing) Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tshering/Chhiring Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
William Hayden Gregory (Will) Cross M 1967 USA Climber Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Alpinist & motivational speaker Details Other expeditions
Gia Tortladze M 1960 Georgia Leader Tbilisi, Georgia Archaeologist Details Other expeditions
Prem Bahadur (Premba) Tamang M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Lapra-1, Dhading - Details Other expeditions
Tshering Phinjo Sherpa M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Karma Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Chepel, Pawai-2, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.