Makalu | 2010 SW Face-W Pillar-SW Ridge

A Ukraine expedition to Makalu in 2010 via SW Face-W Pillar-SW Ridge, led by Mstislav Gorbenko. Summit reached on 23rd May 2010. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6810
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA10111
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-W Pillar-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ukraine
Leaders Mstislav Gorbenko
Sponsor Ukrainian National Himalayan Expedition Makalu 2010
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 119
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Russia
Approach Khanbari->Sedua->Tashigaon->Shipton Pass->Yangla Kharka->old French BC
Basecamp Date 2010-04-07
Summit Date 2010-05-23
Summit Time 1815
Summit Days 46
Total Days 48
Termination Date 2010-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 14
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,4800m),ABC(09/04,5850m),C1(12/04,6200m),C2(17/04,6600m),C3(21/04,7000m),C4(30/04,7500m),C5(17/05,7700m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes Bublyk, Roshko and Venslavosky started their summit push from BC on 15 May. They reached C3 on 17 May and had to sleep there for three nights due to bad weather (high wind). The three-member summit team left C5 at 00:30 hrs of 23 May. Bublyk reached summit at 18:15 hrs. Roshko and Venslavosky reached at 20:00 hrs. When they were on the top snowfall started. Each of them stayed on the summit for about five minutes and descended via normal route, the NW Ridge. Bublyk waited for the two fellow climbers on the summit and they went straight down. Kruglov advised the descending summit members that the guides on the normal route were fixing up the ropes for their clients to the summit on that day. Kruglov got that information over radio. When Bublyk got to the summit he met Chiring and his client who just started their way down the normal route leaving good footprints on the snow. While Bublyk, Roshko and Venslavosky were descending, Marty Schmidt was preparing for his summit bid from his camp at 7700m on normal route on 24 May. On 7 June 2010, Schmidt wrote about the Ukrainians in his last dispatch for Makalu season. Excerpt from Schmidt dispatch, "I got up at 23:00 hours, got out the door after brewing up for a few hours by 01:00 hours. Upon my first hour of climbing, I noticed the full moon on the horizon. I thought great, the weather is improving since it was snowing for the past few hours and I am going to have nice summit day. But that moon started to dance around like it was pulled by a string and it ended up being one of the (Bublyk) Ukrainian's headlamps who summited their new route on the South Face/West Pillar the night before; they reached the top at night and could not reverse their route so decided to descend the North Face, they knew I was climbing that day and had my camp up high on the North Face, because Giannina was in radio contact with their BC. I got the first sorted out with water and getting him on track towards my camp for him to use and rest in. Then an hour later I ran into the second Ukrainian (Roshko), seeing his hands were ungloved and frostbitten, I asked if he had more gloves. We dug into his pack and found mittens, got them on, gave him a lot of hot water to drink and got him on his way towards my camp at 7700m. Before we separated he told me that there was one more of his comrades, some where up there!!!! I took off looking for him. From 8100m I looked up towards the French Couloir and saw a rock in the middle of the snow. As I got closer this rock turned into the third Ukrainian (Venslavosky). He was sitting on his pack, arms crossed, head down and not moving. The death zone was so real at this very moment... I got to him, slapped him awake, got him up, got dex into him, gave him the last of my hot water, took his pack, put a short rope on him and lead him down 300m to his safety and towards my camp. He was able to walk on his own to my tent. I was still able to turn and head towards the summit. It was 09:00 hours by the time I got back to the start of the hard climb with the French Couloir in front of me." "I got back to high camp by 18:00 hours and took care of Dima Venslavosky in my tent through out the night. We packed up in the earlier morning and headed down to the La where his two mates were staying in Arnold's tents. They were re-united as a Ukrainian National team like when they started their climb." (Schmidt's dispatch was forwarded by Kruglov to Jeevan Shrestha). Kruglov and Dr. Bondar met the three summitters in C1 (normal route) on 25 May and descended together to ABC. They stayed at Chiring's camp overnight and descended to British BC at Hillary BC place on the following day 26 May. The Ukrainian BC was already cleared off on 25 May and the team had already set off for Tumlingtar. In the afternoon of 26 May Kruglov and Dr. Bondar along with the three summitters set off for Yangri Kharka where they arrived at 9 pm. On 27 the team waited for Heli to pick them up, but due to bad weather Heli could not reach there. On 28 May the team returned Kathmandu via Lukla by Heli. On the other side, rest of the team members including Leader Gorbenko got stuck in Tumlingtar because the runway was wet and not good for planes to land. On 30 May they drove 8 hours to Biratnagar then took plane to Kathmandu. The expedition team left Nepal on 1 June. Earlier, a team of three members of the expedition Klebanski, Kiyko and Perevalov started their summit push from BC on 13 May. When the team reach 7700m on around 18 May, Klebanski suffered from chest pain, Kiyko got frostbite in his toes (his toes not fully recovered from the frostbite on the previous expedition year before) and Perevalov suffered from pulmonary edema. Another team consisting of Kruglov, Kyrychek, Pugachev and Zakolodny went up on 16 May. Kruglov and Kyrychek helped Perevalov to descend to BC from C5 on 18 May. Perevalov's condition was quite bad. He was able to get down to C1 with little support, but had no strength left to go down any further and was heavily relying on help of Kyrychek and Kruglov. In ABC expedition doctor Bondar gave some injections to Perevalov. Klebanski and Kiyko got down to BC following day 19 May with help of Kilichenko. Pugachev and Zakolodny continued their climb and got to 7700m. Pugachev got high attitude sickness and both descended to BC on 22 or 23 May.
Accidents Frostbite & high altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458295
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-w pillar-sw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Igor Bondar M 1961 Ukraine Exp Doctor Odessa, Ukraine Physician Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bublyk M 1981 Ukraine Climber Sumy, Ukraine Trainer Details Other expeditions
Mstislav Gorbenko M 1947 Ukraine Leader Odessa, Ukraine Alpinist & alpine club director Details Other expeditions
Volodimir (Vova) Klebanski M 1983 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Alpine coach Details Other expeditions
Yuri Kruglov M 1972 Russia Climbing Leader Sevastapol, Crimea, Ukraine IT software developer Details Other expeditions
Pavlo Kyrychek M 1972 Ukraine Climber Kiev, Ukraine Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrei Kiyko M 1980 Ukraine Climber Kharkov, Ukraine Alpine coach Details Other expeditions
Maksim Viktorovich Perevalov M 1976 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Alpine coach Details Other expeditions
Sergei Pugachov M 1962 Ukraine Climber Gorlovka, Donetsk, Ukraine Professional alpinist & electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Volodymir Roshko M 1983 Ukraine Climber Sumy, Ukraine Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Dmytro Venslavovsky M 1979 Ukraine Climber Vinnytsya, Ukraine Electrical power engineer Details Other expeditions
Mykhaylo Zagirnyak M 1947 Ukraine Assistant Coach Kemenchov, Poltava, Ukraine University rector Details Other expeditions
Alexsander Zakalodny M 1987 Ukraine Climber Kharkov, Ukraine Alpine coach Details Other expeditions
Yuri Kilichenko M 1966 Ukraine Cameraman Odessa, Ukraine Advertising company manager Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA10111 - - http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/mountaineering/new-ukrainian-route-on-makalu-sw-wall - - -
MAKA10111 - - http://www.russianclimb.com/makalu_ukraine_2010.html - - -
MAKA10111 AAJ Piunova, Anna - - 85:336-337 (2011) -
MAKA10111 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201133600/Makalu-Partial-New-Route-Southwest-Face-and-West-Pillar - - -