Makalu | 2010 SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Makalu in 2010 via SE Ridge, led by Colin Scott. Summit reached on 23rd May 2010. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6804
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA10105
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Colin Scott
Sponsor British Services Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-04-04
Summit Date 2010-05-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 49
Total Days 54
Termination Date 2010-05-28
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-101-01) (all except Hornby and Jones)
Campsites BC(04/04,4800m),ABC(10/04,5800m),C1(15/04,6200m),C2(10/05,6700m),C3(20/05,7300m),xxx(23/05,7600m)
Route Notes BC was established at the south end of Barun Pokhari (lake). ABC was placed at the south end of the SE Ridge, which had turned south at its bottom end, and C1 was higher on this southward bottom part of the ridge. C2 was placed at the South Col, after having climbed northward and crossed over the top of 6825m high Peak 3. C3 was on a small plateau on the SE Ridge. The expedition was plagued by bad weather: snowfall, plus very strong winds that blew at 60-70 km/hr every day after C1 had been established on 15 April on the exposed ridge. In addition, they were climbing a route that was ten kilometers long. C2 was not occupied until 10 May because the distance between the camps was three and a half kilometers, and they had to spend a long time moving up, fixing rope and establishing a gear dump at C2's site but sleeping every night in C1. C1 actually became an advance BC, where the team stayed when descending from higher altitudes rather than going all the way down to BC. It took four days to fix the rope from C2 to C3, which was occupied on 20 May. Then they had to retreat to C1 for three days because bad weather had set in again. On the 23rd one foot of snow fell within 15 hours; that morning Gale and Smith had fixed lines to 7600m, which turned out to be the expedition's high point. The snow buried these ropes. They stayed in C3 hoping for better weather until the 26th. They they abandoned the climb. The expedition fixed a total of 3000m of rope and used 4000m rope that they had installed when they were on the same route in 2008. While moving up and down between C1 and C2, their four climbing Sherpas and every member except Hornby and Jones went up and over the summit of Peak 3. Oxygen was used by members in and from C3, and to C2 when carrying big loads to clear the mountain. Sherpas used none. Colin Scott suffered a frostbitten finger, but it will heal completely. Members high points: Gale to 7600m fixing rope. Hart was not expected to go very high; he got stomach trouble at 6800m. Hornby as expedition doctor went to C1 (6200m) only. Jones was assigned to look after logictics; he also went no higher than C1. Parkes went to C3 (7300m) and waited there for improvement in the weather. Colin Scott also went to C3 and waited for better weather. Phylip Scott, like Hart, had not been expected to be a high climber; he got to 6800m also. Sherwood, like Hart and Phylip Scott, had not been expected to go very high and stopped at 6800m. Smith to 7600m with Gale fixing rope. Sherpas: Dawa Gelu, 18/1/73 (5/10/2037), Sedua, Makalu-4, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2 Mingma Thinduk, 22/9/80 (6/6/2037), Makalu-9, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1 Ongda Gyalzen (Indian citizen), 23/2/81 (12/11/20370), Makalu-9, moved to Darjeeling, Everest X2 Pasang Ngima, 11/10/87 (25/6/2044), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri I X1
Accidents Colin Scott frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458295
Year 2010
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard Howard (Dick) Gale M 1969 UK Climber Chilwell, Nottingham, E Midlands, England Army engineer Details Other expeditions
Paul Andrew Hart M 1962 UK Climber Horrabridge, Devon, England Physician with naval rank of Lt. Commander Details Other expeditions
Simon Andrew Hornby M 1981 UK Exp Doctor Barnstaple, Devon, England Physician with army rank of surgeon lieutenant Details Other expeditions
Stephen Andrew Jones M 1970 UK Climber Bridgewater, Somerset, England Marine sergeant Details Other expeditions
Matthew Citizen (Matt) Parkes M 1980 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Operations manager of Jagged Globe Details Other expeditions
Colin William Scott M 1962 UK Leader Preston, Rutland, England RAF air traffic controller Details Other expeditions
Phylip Daniel G. Scott M 1975 UK Climber Sheffield, Derbyshire, England RAF physician with rank of flight officer Details Other expeditions
Benjamin Victor (Ben) Sherwood M 1985 UK Climber Haywards, Heath, W Sussex, England Army sapper Details Other expeditions
Robert Kelso Smith M 1971 UK Climber Fort William, Inverness, Scotland Territorial army medic Details Other expeditions
Dawa Gelu Sherpa M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Thindu Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Ongda Gyalzen Sherpa M 1981 India H-A Worker Darjeeling, India - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Ngima Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.