Makalu | 2008 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Brazil expedition to Makalu in 2008 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Waldemar Niclevicz. Summit reached on 11th May 2008. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6058
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA08105
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Brazil
Leaders Waldemar Niclevicz
Sponsor Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 92nd,96th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2008-04-21
Summit Date 2008-05-11
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 20
Total Days 24
Termination Date 2008-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/04,5700m),C1(25/04,6780m),C2(09/05,7440m),C3(10/05,7900m),Smt(11-12/05)
Route Notes C1 at C2 for others C2 at Makalu La C3 at above serac barrier. Makalu Expedition led by Waldemar Niclewicz - 18 & 12 May 2008 On 11 May Burda, Niclevicz, Wilke and Pemba Jangbu left their C3 at 7900m at 1:00 am for the summit. Quintero and Wilke had stayed on the night of the 10th/11th in a lower C3 (at 7600m) with the German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits, and came up from that camp at 11:30 pm and joined them. Wilke went up from Niclevicz's C3 with Quintero for only an hour, then turned back. The first hour's climb from 7900m is very steep and not an easy climb. Wilke got very cold, so turned around and went down to 7600m. He summited on 12 May: he left his high camp at 7600m, met Carlos Martinez of the Spanish Basque led by Roberto Rojo their camp at 7800m at about 2:00 am and the two went to the summit together at 10:00-11:00 am. Wilke returned to the 7600m camp and found Quintero there (see below regarding Quintero). Meanwhile, Pemba Jangbu Sherpa summited on 11 May with a Sherpa from the French team led by Francois Marsigny slightly ahead of Burda and Niclevicz, who got there at 11:00 am. They went down to C2 at 8:00 pm and stayed there that night. They had "wonderful weather" when they went to the top without any worries about bad weather. Quintero, who had not been using oxygen, reached the summit at 11:20 am on the 11th and descended to 7600m at 6:00 pm. On the 12th, when Wilke descended from the summit, he found Quintero still at 7600m at 6:00 pm. Quintero now was badly affected by cerebral edema; the things he was saying made little sense: he "was not connected with moment," as Burda put it. Wilke stayed with Quintero at 7600m that night, and on the 13th they started moving down together. It took Quintero all that morning to descend 100m: he was moving like a drunk man. At the small col at 7500m where the predominantly Swiss team led by Austrian Peter Gschwendtner had their camp, Quintero found some oxygen bottles without any mask or regulator, but the independent British climber Ted Atkins came along on his way to the summit and stopped to give Quintero some oxygen from the set he was carrying; he took off his mask and put it on Quintero. Then Gschwendtner arrived from the summit and gave his mask and regulator to Quintero so that Atkins could have his own back. From here to BC Quintero was using oxygen normally. The team led by Gschwendtner moved out of their camp but left their tent for Quintero and Wilke to stay in that night, the 13th. Meanwhile Niclevicz, Burda and Gonzalez-Rubio, who were in BC on the 13th, were told by walkie-talkie about Quintero's condition, and they and their sirdar went from camp to camp asking if any Sherpas were available to go up and help bring him down. Two Sherpas from the Japanese expedition led by Kazuoshi Kondo agreed to go, and they left BC at 10:00 pm. At 7:00 am the next morning, the 14th, they reached the Niclevicz-Quintero-Wilke camp at the Makalu La and found Quintero and Wilke were there. The Sherpas tied Quintero onto their rope and the four men started down together. Wilke went with them to 6700m and then went on down ahead of them; he was very tired and had been at high altitude without any oxygen for days. He reached BC at 4:00 pm, and Quintero and the Sherpas arrived two hours later. Quintero had been using oxygen all the way from 7500m but now switched off. Quintero should never have been on the mountain. "He pushed the limit -- lost a crampon, lost a jumar, lost his consciousness." Niclevicz and Burda hadn't known him before; he was there because he was a friend of another member whose judgement they relied on. Except for Gonzalez-Rubio the team left BC on 15 May. Gonzalez-Rubio stayed on, hoping to get to the summit. He managed to reach 7900m on 19 May and then turned back and abandoned his climb. He left BC on 22 May. Oxygen used by Quintero as discussed above. Niclevicz and Burda used it from their C3 at 7900m to the top to C3. Sherpa: Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, 16/2/86 (5/11/2042), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457506
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Irivan Gustavo Burda M 1971 Brazil Climber Curitiba, Brazil Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Fernando Alonso Gonzalez-Rubio Polanco M 1968 Colombia Climber Suesca, Cundinamarca, Colombia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Waldemar Niclevicz M 1966 Brazil Leader Curitiba, Brazil Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Santiago Quintero Sylva M 1974 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carlos Hernan Wilke M 1973 Argentina Climber Bogota, Argentina Outdoor equipment retailer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pemba Jangbu Sherpa M 1986 Nepal H-A Worker Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA08105 - - http://www.niclevicz.com.br - - -