Makalu | 2007 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Kazakhstan expedition to Makalu in 2007 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Denis Urubko. Summit reached on 2nd February 2008. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5922
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA07402
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2007
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Denis Urubko
Sponsor Kazakhstanis to Makalu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Plane to Lukla and chopper to Tangma (4650m) below Barun Pokhari
Basecamp Date 2008-01-13
Summit Date 2008-02-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 22
Termination Date 2008-02-04
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7480m due to fierce wind
High Point (m) 7480
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 350
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/01,5600m),C1(16/01,6400m),xxx(02/02,7480m)
Route Notes BC at high BC C1 at Chago Glacier. Kazakhstanis on Makalu led by Denis Urubko - 12 Feb 2007 From their base camp at 5600m, on 16 January the four members moved up to C1 at 6400m and next day three members, Samoilov, Shutov and Urubko, bivouacked at 6800m to acclimatize. They made no fixed camp here because the windy weather would probably have damaged it in their absence. They descended to BC on the 18th and rested there. Durov did not join them in their climb on the 17th because of stomach trouble. He never went above C1. On the 22nd all down to the so called Hillary BC near Barun Pokhari (lake) to breathe air with more oxygen in it -- they had no bottled oxygen with them. Next day they were back in BC. On the 25th, back to C1. Next day Shutov returned to BC because he was too cold. On the 27th, Samoilov and Urubko climbed to 7200 meters, where Samoilov had to turn back because he had not acclimatized well; he and Urubko also returned to BC. The weather was perfect at this time -- no wind, no clouds -- and it remained so for about two days. Perfect climbing weather. On the 31st, Samoilov, Shutov and Urubko, climbed to 6700m and bivouacked there. On 1 February they continued up and reached the Makalu La at 7400m. The sky was clear, but now strong wind was blowing. "We flew one by one to the Makalu La," said Urubko. They were roped together so "flew" only a couple of meters. They moved over onto the north side of the NW Ridge, and spent the night there about 50 meters below the ridge on a small ledge which they reached in the dark at about 7:00 pm. They slept sitting up on this ledge in half of a tent. Next day, 2 February, they tried to continue their ascent to the summit. They moved 200 meters along a gully which was like a horizontal couloir, but it gave little protection from the fierce wind. They managed to gain perhaps 80 meters more altitude -- certainly less than 100 meters -- but the wind was blowing at about 120 km/hr. They were again roped together, but again they "flew" two or three meters. They now turned back and descended all the way to BC that day on good firm snow. The climb was over: the weather forecast was for another week of strong wind, and the team had a fixed departure date from Nepal of the 13th. They had fixed a total of 350 meters of rope in 50 meters sections below the Makalu La. They were also able to use 200 meters of rope that they found in place.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457406
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gennadiy Durov M 1983 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Rescue expert in ministry of emergency services Details Other expeditions
Sergei Samoilov M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Rescue expert in ministry of emergency services Details Other expeditions
Evgeny Shutov M 1980 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Rescue expert in ministry of emergency services Details Other expeditions
Denis Viktorovich Urubko M 1973 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Sportsman officer in army Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA07402 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 82:407-408 (2008) -
MAKA07402 - - http://www.russianclimb.com/makalu_winter2008/makalu_winter_en.html - - -
MAKA07402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200840700/Asia-Nepal-Upper-Dolpo-Mahalangur-HimalMakalu-Section-Makalu-Winter-Attempts - - -