Makalu | 2004 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Mexico expedition to Makalu in 2004 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Mauricio Lopez. Summit reached on 20th May 2004. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4646
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA04105
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Mexico
Leaders Mauricio Lopez
Sponsor Mexican-Spanish Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 83rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-04-18
Summit Date 2004-05-20
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 32
Total Days 35
Termination Date 2004-05-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,5500m),ABC(21/04,5700m),C1(24/04,6800m),C2(12/05,7500m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes BC at Tangmar ABC at site of same high base camp C1 at Chago glacier's large left branch at bottom C2 at above Makalu La. From C1, climbed up glacier to NW Ridge, which they reached above Makalu La, then down to ABC to rest. 17 May, all 4 members and all 4 Sherpas left ABC for summit push and slept in C1. 18th to C2. 19th at 7:00 pm all left C2 for top. On 20th Fernandez and Dawa Chhiri reached summit at 10:00 am and down to C2 at about 9:00 pm. Lhakpa Sherpa stopped 40m below summit; Orvis, 2 Mexicans, Fura Dorje and Dayalu Sherpa stopped at a peak 10m below highest peak, a point they BC at reached at 12:30 pm. From this lower peak to highest one then was an extremely narrow ridge which only one person at a time could cross. Orvis asked Mexicans to wait here while he summited and returned to them and they did; they could follow then, but Orvis was very slow because he was not using any oxygen; he reached summit at 1:30 pm, so Mexicans now abandoned their plan to go to highest peak and all descended together down to snowfield at 8200m, which they reached as it got dark. Mexicans made unprepared biv here while the three Sherpas (Dayala, Fura Dorje and Lhakpa) continued down to C2. There was wind and snowfall all right and Lopez's toes became badly frostbitten. They left biv at 5:00 am on 21st, rested for 2 hours, all down to ABC at 10:00 pm. Left ABC 22nd to BC. Helicopter evacuated Lopez from village 2 days walk from BC on 26th; Maoists would not permit helicopter to land higher. Oxygene: Orvis never used it Fernandez in C2 to top and in C2 Both Mexicans in C2 to lower peak to 8000m, where it ran out 4 Sherpas from C2 to their high points to C2. Sherpas: Lhakpa Sherpa, Makalu, 38 years old Fura Dorje, Sotang, Everest X5, Lhotse 20/5/03 Dayalu Sherpa, Sotang, 31 years old
Accidents Lopez 4 badly frostbitten toes
Achievement -
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456050
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Badia Briseida Bonilla Luna F 1966 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Nutritionist Details Other expeditions
Rosa Maria Fernandez Rubio F 1960 Spain Climber Oviedo, Asturias, Spain Mountain bike shop owner Details Other expeditions
Mauricio Ernesto Lopez Ahumada M 1957 Mexico Leader Mexico City, Mexico Laundry owner Details Other expeditions
Jose Ignacio (Nacho) Orviz Menendez M 1958 Spain Climber Gijon, Asturias, Spain Firefighter Details Other expeditions
Dawa Chhiri (Dawa Tsiri) Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA04105 - - http://www.unaparejaenascenso.com/ExpAnt.php - - -