Makalu | 2004 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Norway expedition to Makalu in 2004 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Sven Gangdal. Summit reached on 21st April 2004. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4650
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA04104
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Norway
Leaders Sven Gangdal
Sponsor Makalu Expedition 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 78th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Czech Republic
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-04-06
Summit Date 2004-04-21
Summit Time 0915
Summit Days 15
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2004-04-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1500
Total Members 5
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,5800m),C1(10/04,6500m),C2(18/04,7500m),C3(20/04,7800m),Smt(21/04)
Route Notes C2 at above Makalu La. Route between BC and C1 was more direct than normal line and enabled team to put C1 higher than usual by 100m. Very long route from C1 to C2. C3 occupied by Parker, Gangdal and Dawa Tshering, but at 3:00 am on 21st and Parker had no strength to go on up and only Gangdal and Dawa Tshering went for top. Left C3 at 3:45 am and reached top 9:15 am on beautiful morning, no wind but very cold in dark but in sun was quite warm; fine view of Everest and Kangchenjunga. Made a second variation of normal route by not going up couloir but up difficult rock ridge left of couloir for 200m on way to summit and went under false summit higher up. Went from summit to BC; returned to BC at 6:30 pm for Gangdal and 4:00 pm for Dawa Tshering. Nezerka and Volden to C2 only, Voldmo not above 7100m. Parker stayed on mountain to make another summit bid. Parker - 14 May Australian Parker returned to KTM today. On 4 June he said Gangdal's objective was for only him to get to the summit and he didn't expect Parker to do so. Anyway Parker made a summit bid. Left BC on 4th May to C1 with cook. Stayed 2 days in C1 because strong wind. Down to BC on 6th because had stomach trouble and cook's climbing experience was limited and so abandoned climb. Parker doubts that Gangdal actually reached summit. Gangdal moved up to C3 very slowly and was extremely exhausted when he arrived at C3.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Rolwaling Excursion
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456021
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sven Hougen Gangdal M 1954 Norway Leader Tangen, Norway Sports association director Details Other expeditions
Josef (Pepino) Nezerka M 1954 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic Construction company director Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mick) Parker M 1973 Australia Climber Warrandyte, Victoria, Australia Graphic artist Details Other expeditions
Brit Volden F 1960 Norway Climber Kongsberg, Norway Pharmacy director Details Other expeditions
Stian Slettum Voldmo M 1975 Norway Climber Trysil, Norway Hotel receptionist Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tshering (Dawa Chhiri) Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.