Makalu | 2004 Makalu La-NW Ridge
A UK expedition to Makalu in 2004 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Keith Kerr. Summit reached on 10th May 2004. 5 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4645 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAKA04103 |
| Peak ID | MAKA |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | Makalu La-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Keith Kerr |
| Sponsor | Jagged Globe Makalu Expedition 2004 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 79th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-04-18 |
| Summit Date | 2004-05-10 |
| Summit Time | 1400 |
| Summit Days | 22 |
| Total Days | 25 |
| Termination Date | 2004-05-13 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8485 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 200 |
| Total Members | 2 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(18/04,5600m),C1(22/04,6300m),C2(24/04,6650m),C3(27/04,7400m),C4(09/05,7600m),Smt(10/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at bottom of icefall C1 at top of step hard ice C2 at middle of main Chago Glacier C3 at Makalu La C4 slightly raised section of Makalu La. From BC climbed the right (west) branch of Chago Glacier and put C1 on this glacier. Louis went to C1 and C2; on 20th down to BC and stopped his attempt because of loss of energy while Kerr up to C3 with 3 Sherpas. Then to BC rest for 3 days but had to stay 5 days because of strong wind high on mountain. 4th May ABC to C2. 5th May to C3 but food tents destroyed so down to BC again. 7th May again to C2. 8th to C3 and pitching 2 new tents there. 9th made C4. 10th Kerr and 3 Sherpas left C4 at 3:00 am. Weather good but winds had blown much snow cover off of rocks so had to cross rock sections with crampons on. 2:00 pm on top in very strong wind but clear weather till near summit when nearly white out coming and going. In descent used 2 ice tools to keep from being blown off. At C4 site tent and contents gone in the wind, so using headlamps got to C3 without sleeping bags, back in C3 tent 8:30 pm. All to BC on 11th May. Oxygen: Kerr and 3 Sherpas sleeping in C2 and from top to C3. Summit Sherpas: Lhakpa Dorje, Sanam, Solu, Makalu X2, Lhotse X1, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1 Lhakpa Tenzing, Sanam, Solu, 21/12/70, brother of Lhakpa Dorje, 1st 8000er Chhepi (Chumbi) Bhote, Makalu area, Hatiya VDC, 30/9/74, 1st 8000er |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2456040 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | makalu la-nw ridge |
Members
5 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Louis M. Bowen | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Hong Kong | Manages investment business | Details Other expeditions |
| Keith Graham Kerr | M | 1952 | UK | Leader | Hong Kong | Real estate developer | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lakpa Tenje (Lhakpa Tenzing) Sherpa | M | 1970 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chhebi Bhote | M | 1974 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Hungung, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.