Makalu | 2004 SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Makalu in 2004 via SE Ridge, led by Colin Scott. Summit reached on 16th May 2004. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4644
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA04102
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Colin Scott
Sponsor British Services Makalu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-04-08
Summit Date 2004-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 52
Termination Date 2004-05-30
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to bad weather, dangerous conditions and lack of time
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 4500
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-041-01)
Campsites BC(08/04,4800m),C1(14/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6100m),C3(07/05,6600m),C4(15/05,7300m),xxx(16/05,7500m)
Route Notes BC at east side of Barun Pokhari C1 ESE of Barun Pokhari on ridge C2 on same ridge C3 on col north of Pt 6682m [incorrectly called Peak 3 on some maps] C4 at small notch on SE Ridge. From BC did not go up ice fall ENE of Barun Pokhari, but went ESE of the lake to a ridge running NNE over point 6260m and over Pt 6682m (Pt 6825m on Schneider Khumbu map). C1 was on ridge SSW of point 6260m. Then followed ridge over top of Pt 6682m to Col north of of it at start of SE Ridge. From Col traversed on South Face below ridge because SE Ridge extremely narrow above Col. Then went to SE Ridge at 7300m, where placed C4 on 9th May. Fixed 300m ropes about C4 10-12 May and down to BC to rest and wait for better weather, which had become bad with continuously daily snowfall. Back at BC 13 May. 18th May 3 members went back up to go to C4 (Scott, Muddiman, Gale and Nima and Pema Sherpa): to C1, 19th to C2, 20th to C3, 21st and 22nd tried to go to C4 but get no higher than 7000m because of dangerous avalanching (snow) on South Face across their line of traverse; downward climb on 24th because now running out of time; Scott on 24th down to BC, others stayed at C3 and later stripped all gear. Pema went up to bring down C4 on 28th. Fixed ropes from C1 to Pt 6682m and on up to 7500m on ridge going up from Pt 6682m. 40-5/mph winds - not scary climb. High points of members (not already given over): Berryman - C3 Boyce - c6600m Burrell - C3 MacDonald - 7200m MacInnes - C4 Marshall - C4 Mellor - C3 Singleton - 7200m Tait - C3 Venables - Pt 6682 summit Pt 6682m [Peak 3] ascents: All members except Boyce and both Sherpas summited via South Ridge on 4 May and in following days as they moved up and down their Makalu route to its SE Ridge. This was same route on Pt 6682m followed by Doug Scott's Makalu expedition in spring 1984. Taken from British Services Makalu Expedition 2004 - Expedition Report From the outset the selection of Makalu and Baruntse as objectives meant that both teams would be facing challenges of the very highest order. Reaching their respective summits was always going to provide a very significant test, with the weather and conditions on the mountain naturally playing a major part. Underpinning our preparation was detailed planning thorough training and success in sourching the necessary quantity and quality of food and equipment for the task. An ascent of Makalu, particularly the South East Ridge, continues to be one of the true great challenges of Himalayan mountaineering. Frustratingly, from the outset, the dangerous condition of the icefall added to the difficulty of our task by forcing us on to the longer route over Peak 3 [Pt 6682m]. Hampered by extremely strong winds and frequent heavy snowfall alone on the South-East Ridge with no other teams to kick the steps and no line of fixed rope from previous expeditions instead battering us with more wind and snow. To have reached the summit we would have needed a deal of luck but not to have had the opportunity to try was immensely frustrating.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456046
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chris Berryman M 1969 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland RAF regiment officer with rank of flight lieutenant Details Other expeditions
Stewart Boyce M 1963 UK Climber Preston, Lancashire, England RAF aircraft engineer Details Other expeditions
David (Dave) Bunting M 1968 UK Climber Belper, Derbyshire, England Army physical training instructor with rank of warrant officer Details Other expeditions
Aleck Burrell M 1973 UK Climber London, England Marine captain Details Other expeditions
Richard Howard (Dick) Gale M 1969 UK Climber Chatham, Kent, England Army engineer with rank of second warrant officer Details Other expeditions
Uisdean MacDonald M 1966 UK Climber Anglesey, Wales Joint services climbing instructor with army rank of sergeant Details Other expeditions
Ben MacInnes M 1976 UK Climber Barnstable, Devon, England Army engineer with rank of captain Details Other expeditions
Stephen (Sam) Marshall M 1966 UK Climber Watersbeach, Cambridge, England Army aircraft engineer with rank of staff sergeant Details Other expeditions
Adrian John Mellor M 1967 UK Climber Middlesbrough, N Yorkshire, England Navy consultant anesthetist with rank of surgeon lieutenent Details Other expeditions
Andrew Muddiman M 1973 UK Climber Steeple Ashton, Wiltshire, England Marine officer with rank of major Details Other expeditions
Ian Singleton M 1967 UK Climber Stafford, Staffordshire, England Royal Air Force officer Details Other expeditions
Colin William Scott M 1962 UK Leader Marlow, Buckingham, England RAF air traffic controller with rank of squadron leader Details Other expeditions
David Christopher Tait M 1968 UK Climber High Wycombe, Buckingham, England RAF regiment officer with rank of squadron leader Details Other expeditions
Ian M. Venables M 1968 UK Climber St. Andrews, Fife, Scotland Sergeant in RAF mountain rescue team Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pema Sherpa M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Ekuwa, Pathivara-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA04102 CLIM - - - 4:93 (Jun 2005) -
MAKA04102 AAJ Scott, Colin - - 79:398 (2005) -
MAKA04102 - - http://www.makalu2004.com - - -
MAKA04102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200539800/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Mahalangur-East-Makalu-Section-Makalu-Southeast-Ridge-Integral-Attempt - - -