Makalu | 2004 W Pillar

A Kazakhstan expedition to Makalu in 2004 via W Pillar, led by Maxut Zhumayev. Summit reached on 17th May 2004. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	4643
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Pillar
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Kazakhstan
Leaders	Maxut Zhumayev
Sponsor	Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	81st,82nd
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	Ukraine, USA
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	2004-04-17
Summit Date	2004-05-17
Summit Time	1930
Summit Days	30
Total Days	39
Termination Date	2004-05-26
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8485
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	3900
Total Members	9
Summit Members	4
Member Deaths	2
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	True
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(17/04,5250m),C1(21/04,5900m),C2(26/04,6300m),C3(06/05,7400m),C4(14/05,7750m),Smt(17,20/05)
Route Notes	BC just above junctions of Barun and Chago Glacier C1 at just below point 5180m on Schneider map C2 at West Pillar C3 at West Pillar C4 at top of Pillar. First summit party had tried to go to top on 15th. Brodsky, Molgachev and Rychkov and reached 8300m and turned back there at 4:30 pm (had left C4 at 6:00 am) because now too late and windy; back to C4. 2nd party, Sieger and Terzyul, left C4 at 6:00 am on 17th and on top at 7:30 pm (Ilyinski in BC saw them on top through telescope, in setting sun's light). After they reached summit, fog covered them and no longer seen and next day, Ilyinski saw Sieger come down to about 8300m and sit down 9:30 am, then Ilinisky stopped watching for 5 minutes and saw no one moving but saw red object, which was Sieger's body; Terzyul never seen again. Next summit party left C4, Zhumayev and Pivtsov at 0:10 am of 20th May and both on and up at 9:48 am and saw Sieger's body at 8300m where they were ascending and descending. Body was upside down with right arm extending up but head headed downwards amongst large rocks: impossible to move body. Returned to C4 at 6:00 pm. 4 members made next attempt on 21 May from BC, Brodsky and Rudukov turned back at C2 from fatigue while Molgachev and Richkov continued up, reached C4 on 24 May, 11:45 am up from C4 for top but snowfalling and stopped at 8000m; windy and very cold and back to BC same day and now climb finished. Marty Schmidt - 3 June 2010 The 2010 Ukranian team found Jay Sieger's body hanging from a rope at 7800m.
Accidents	2 fatalities
Achievement	-
Agency	Asian Trekking
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2456047
Year	2004
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	w pillar

Members

Field	Value
ID	35801
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Sergei
Last Name	Brodsky
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1977
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Postman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8300
Summit Date 1	2004-05-15
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	13
HCN	0
Checksum	2441414
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	sergei brodsky
Year of Birth	1977
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35802
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Ervand Tikhonovich
Last Name	Ilyinski
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1940
Calculated Age	63
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Alpine instructor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2427921
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ervand tikhonovich ilyinski
Year of Birth	1940
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	64
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	35803
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	04
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Damir
Last Name	Molgachev
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1975
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Postman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8300
Summit Date 1	2004-05-15
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	13
HCN	0
Checksum	2440449
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	damir molgachev
Year of Birth	1975
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	29
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35804
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	05
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Vassily T.
Last Name	Pivtsov
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1975
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	2004-05-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0948
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	82
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2440584
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	vassily t. pivtsov
Year of Birth	1975
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	29
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35805
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	06
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Artyom
Last Name	Rychkov
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1979
Calculated Age	24
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Postman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8300
Summit Date 1	2004-05-15
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	13
HCN	0
Checksum	2442061
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	artyom rychkov
Year of Birth	1979
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35806
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	07
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Alexander
Last Name	Rudakov
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1975
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Postman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7700
Summit Date 1	2004-05-12
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2440651
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alexander rudakov
Year of Birth	1975
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	29
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35807
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	08
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Jay
Last Name	Sieger
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	45
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Kenai, Alaska
Occupation	Oil field technician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	2004-05-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1930
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	81
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	2004-05-18
Death Time	-
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	8300
Death Class	5
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Probable fall about 30m off of descent path
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1958-2004) Died 18 May 2004 on Makalu from fall
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2434374
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	jay sieger
Year of Birth	1958
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	46
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35808
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	09
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Vladislav
Last Name	Terzyul
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1953
Calculated Age	50
Citizenship	Ukraine
Status	Climber
Residence	Odessa, Ukraine
Occupation	General manager of company that repairs & paints tall buildings
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	2004-05-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1930
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	81
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	2004-05-17
Death Time	-
Death Type	9
Death Height (m)	8400
Death Class	5
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Disappeared
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1953-2004) Disappeared 17 May 2004 on Makalu
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2432512
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	vladislav terzyul
Year of Birth	1953
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	51
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	35809
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	MAKA
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Maxut S.
Last Name	Zhumayev
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1977
Calculated Age	27
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Leader
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Attorney
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8485
Summit Date 1	2004-05-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0948
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	82
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2441086
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	maxut s. zhumayev
Year of Birth	1977
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Leader

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Sergei Brodsky	M	1977	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Postman	Details Other expeditions
Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski	M	1940	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Alpine instructor	Details Other expeditions
Damir Molgachev	M	1975	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Postman	Details Other expeditions
Vassily T. Pivtsov	M	1975	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Artyom Rychkov	M	1979	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Postman	Details Other expeditions
Alexander Rudakov	M	1975	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Postman	Details Other expeditions
Jay Sieger	M	1958	USA	Climber	Kenai, Alaska	Oil field technician	Details Other expeditions
Vladislav Terzyul	M	1953	Ukraine	Climber	Odessa, Ukraine	General manager of company that repairs & paints tall buildings	Details Other expeditions
Maxut S. Zhumayev	M	1977	Kazakhstan	Leader	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Attorney	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	6356
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Reference ID	01
Year	2004
Type	3
Journal	CLIM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	2005
Language	-
Citation	4:96 (Jun 2005)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7593
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	MAKA04101
Reference ID	02
Year	2004
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://www.russianclimb.com/makalu_parago/parago_en.html
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
MAKA04101	CLIM	-	-	-	4:96 (Jun 2005)	-
MAKA04101	-	-	http://www.russianclimb.com/makalu_parago/parago_en.html	-	-	-