Makalu | 2002 Makalu La-NW Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu in 2002 via Makalu La-NW Ridge, led by Edurne Pasaban. Summit reached on 16th May 2002. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4078
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAKA02103
Peak ID MAKA
Year 2002
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Makalu La-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Edurne Pasaban
Sponsor International Makalu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 74th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2002-04-12
Summit Date 2002-05-16
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 34
Total Days 35
Termination Date 2002-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8485
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 650
Total Members 6
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,5600m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(03/05,7400m),C3(15/05,7700m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes BC 100m below icefall C1 half way up steep section below Makalu La C2 at Maklu La C3 on north side of NW Ridge (400m below). Route from BC to C1 direct and to east of rock barrier in middle of Chago Glacier. 17th April to BC to rest. Then bad weather period (morning wind, afternoon snowfall began and very cold). Left BC 21 April to C1. 22nd fixed to Makalu La's C2 and back to BC 23rd. Left BC again to C1 25th and bad weather and back to BC same day. Left BC 3 May to C1, 4th to C2, 6th to 7800m: too cold to summit so back to BC same day. 13 May to C1, 14th to C2, 15th made C3 at 7700m before on icefall, 16th across seracs to small plateau before couloir, up couloir and then to left to top via final section of NW Ridge. Left C3 at 2:30 am: all 6 members and Dorje ("Big Dorje" from Thamo). Valencia and Gutierrez turned back at 8000m, tired and incipient altitude sickness by Gutierrez and slept in C3 while other 4 members and Dorje to top 10:30 am and met Valencia and Gutierrez at 1:30 pm at point where had stopped. Summiters stayed on top 1-1/3 hours in light wind and clouds below the down to BC by all summiters except Pasaban to C3. 17 May Pasaban to BC and two due to weakness went to BC on 18th. Difficult mountain, impossible in wind. Swiss team's Reichen on top with this team; Joos later. Enroute to BC before team reached Tashigaon, they were stopped by six Maoists who had pistols, rifles, grenades; were very young men or boys; they took Rs 5000 and a camera from each member.
Accidents Only Gutierrez incipient altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455313
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) makalu la-nw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joseba Koldo Gutierrez Jauregui M 1969 Spain Climber Berriozar, Navarra, Spain Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Gian Mario Merelli M 1962 Italy Climber Lizzola, Bergamo, Italy Hotel owner/manager Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli M 1958 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine rescuer Details Other expeditions
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar F 1973 Spain Leader Altzo, Guipuzcoa, Spain Industrial engineer Details Other expeditions
Juan Carlos Pauner Gotor M 1964 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Owner of chemicals factory Details Other expeditions
Ricardo Valencia Martinez M 1959 Spain Climber Salinas de Ibargoiti, Navarra, Spain Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAKA02103 HIGH - - - 244:55 (Mar 2003) -
MAKA02103 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 77:400-401 (2003) -
MAKA02103 - - http://www.carlospauner.com/pages/expedic/makalu.html - - -
MAKA02103 - - http://www.edurnepasaban.com - - -
MAKA02103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200340000/Janak-Himal-Maoist-Encounters-Spring-Season-Commentary - - -