Makalu II | 1992 S Ridge
A UK expedition to Makalu II in 1992 via S Ridge, led by Sandy Allan. Summit reached on 7th November 1992. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1174 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAK292303 |
| Peak ID | MAK2 |
| Year | 1992 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Sandy Allan |
| Sponsor | 1992 International Makalu II Expedition (OTT) |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Argentina, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1992-10-28 |
| Summit Date | 1992-11-07 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 10 |
| Total Days | 14 |
| Termination Date | 1992-11-11 |
| Termination Reason | 7 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7200m due to various illnesses, lack of strength and time |
| High Point (m) | 7200 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 2 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/10,5200m),C1(30/10,5600m),C2(31/10,6300m),Biv(07/11,7200m),xxx |
| Route Notes | BC where glaciers meet (normal Makalu BC) High point at top of glacier. Used Japanese fixed ropes. On 7th Nov Allan, J. Kaplan & sirdar biv at 7200m intending to try for summit on next day. Was very windy on 7th, perfect day on 8th but now Kaplan was seriously ill from altitude & so had to go down. Kaplan was only client who had been fit enough to try for top. Others had altitude problems, diarrhea & general fitness problems. "Whole thing was a farce - a real cowboy affair." Helft not allowed to climb by HMG since he has Argentinian passport & no endorsement by American Alpine Club. Expedition was a commercial "rip-off" & it collapsed because of too little time, altitude & others sickness & clients incompetence. Clients were told climb was "easy." They were odd short plus windy weather. Mitchell couldn't make it up mountain but told by OTT he could. Original leader & promoter, Mark Miller was killed in PIA crash 28th Sept coming to Kathmandu. His organizing company then hastily hired Allan & Smith to take over leadership. They came to Nepal after group, arrived at BC a day after it was established & "led from the rear." Mitchell - 7 Nov 92 Mitchell with main group arrived on 2nd day of walking very weak from illness in KTM on 3rd day of walk in 12 Oct carried to Tumlingtar and flew out 13th to KTM (illness was bad reaction to anti-malarial pill, said CIWEC clinic). On 24th Oct went by helicopter to Tashigaon with 1 Sherpa from KTM. On 25th am snowing heavily and porter unable to cross Shipton Pass and Sherpa and Mitchell not well equipped and 26th back to Tashigaon. 29th helicopter to take out sick Kaplan from BC and Kaplan and Mitchell chatted - and Mitchell realized no point in trying to go on to BC and join team. So same day Mitchell party trekked to Tumlingtar and flew to KTM on 4 Nov. Mitchell leaves KTM 8 or 10 Nov. Will return to Nepal for Everest N. Arrive KTM 22 August for acclimatization 10 day trek. Out There Trekking in UK, Himalayan Expeditions North Col route. |
| Accidents | J. Kaplan cerebral edema; W. Kaplan injured on walk in |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451826 |
| Year | 1992 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alexander Roderick (Sandy) Allan | M | 1955 | UK | Leader | Fochabers, Moray, Scotland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Fraser Andrew | M | 1971 | UK | Climber | Alfreton, Derbyshire, England | Steeplejack | Details Other expeditions |
| Miguel Helft | M | 1963 | Argentina | Climber | Berkeley, California | Trek leader | Details Other expeditions |
| Gabriel Kaplan | M | 1970 | USA | Climber | Washington, DC | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan Kaplan | M | 1968 | USA | Climber | San Francisco, California | Environmental consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew James Mayers | M | 1964 | UK | Climber | Headcorn, Kent, England | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sean Smith | M | 1961 | UK | Deputy Leader | Clapham, London, England | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| David Soutar | M | 1961 | UK | Climber | Richmond, Surrey, England | Computer analyst | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan Vanderkar | M | 1968 | UK | Climber | London, England | Solicitor | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Miller | M | 1961 | UK | Original Leader | Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Radvils | M | - | UK | Original Deputy Leader | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| John Mitchell | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | Fetcham, Surrey, England | Unemployed (blind) | Details Other expeditions |
| Warren Kaplan | M | 1935 | USA | Climber | Wahington, DC | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAK292303 | AAJ | Helft, Miguel | - | - | 67:209-210 (1993) | - |
| MAK292303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199320903/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-or-Makalu-II-Attempt | - | - | - |