Makalu II | 1992 S Ridge

A UK expedition to Makalu II in 1992 via S Ridge, led by Sandy Allan. Summit reached on 7th November 1992. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1174
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK292303
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1992
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Sandy Allan
Sponsor 1992 International Makalu II Expedition (OTT)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Argentina, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-10-28
Summit Date 1992-11-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1992-11-11
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to various illnesses, lack of strength and time
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/10,5200m),C1(30/10,5600m),C2(31/10,6300m),Biv(07/11,7200m),xxx
Route Notes BC where glaciers meet (normal Makalu BC) High point at top of glacier. Used Japanese fixed ropes. On 7th Nov Allan, J. Kaplan & sirdar biv at 7200m intending to try for summit on next day. Was very windy on 7th, perfect day on 8th but now Kaplan was seriously ill from altitude & so had to go down. Kaplan was only client who had been fit enough to try for top. Others had altitude problems, diarrhea & general fitness problems. "Whole thing was a farce - a real cowboy affair." Helft not allowed to climb by HMG since he has Argentinian passport & no endorsement by American Alpine Club. Expedition was a commercial "rip-off" & it collapsed because of too little time, altitude & others sickness & clients incompetence. Clients were told climb was "easy." They were odd short plus windy weather. Mitchell couldn't make it up mountain but told by OTT he could. Original leader & promoter, Mark Miller was killed in PIA crash 28th Sept coming to Kathmandu. His organizing company then hastily hired Allan & Smith to take over leadership. They came to Nepal after group, arrived at BC a day after it was established & "led from the rear." Mitchell - 7 Nov 92 Mitchell with main group arrived on 2nd day of walking very weak from illness in KTM on 3rd day of walk in 12 Oct carried to Tumlingtar and flew out 13th to KTM (illness was bad reaction to anti-malarial pill, said CIWEC clinic). On 24th Oct went by helicopter to Tashigaon with 1 Sherpa from KTM. On 25th am snowing heavily and porter unable to cross Shipton Pass and Sherpa and Mitchell not well equipped and 26th back to Tashigaon. 29th helicopter to take out sick Kaplan from BC and Kaplan and Mitchell chatted - and Mitchell realized no point in trying to go on to BC and join team. So same day Mitchell party trekked to Tumlingtar and flew to KTM on 4 Nov. Mitchell leaves KTM 8 or 10 Nov. Will return to Nepal for Everest N. Arrive KTM 22 August for acclimatization 10 day trek. Out There Trekking in UK, Himalayan Expeditions North Col route.
Accidents J. Kaplan cerebral edema; W. Kaplan injured on walk in
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451826
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexander Roderick (Sandy) Allan M 1955 UK Leader Fochabers, Moray, Scotland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fraser Andrew M 1971 UK Climber Alfreton, Derbyshire, England Steeplejack Details Other expeditions
Miguel Helft M 1963 Argentina Climber Berkeley, California Trek leader Details Other expeditions
Gabriel Kaplan M 1970 USA Climber Washington, DC Student Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Kaplan M 1968 USA Climber San Francisco, California Environmental consultant Details Other expeditions
Andrew James Mayers M 1964 UK Climber Headcorn, Kent, England Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Sean Smith M 1961 UK Deputy Leader Clapham, London, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
David Soutar M 1961 UK Climber Richmond, Surrey, England Computer analyst Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Vanderkar M 1968 UK Climber London, England Solicitor Details Other expeditions
Mark Miller M 1961 UK Original Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Victor Radvils M - UK Original Deputy Leader - - Details Other expeditions
John Mitchell M 1958 UK Climber Fetcham, Surrey, England Unemployed (blind) Details Other expeditions
Warren Kaplan M 1935 USA Climber Wahington, DC Attorney Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK292303 AAJ Helft, Miguel - - 67:209-210 (1993) -
MAK292303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199320903/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-or-Makalu-II-Attempt - - -